Seax? and a conservation question

Matchlock · 8th October 2009, 11:51 AM

Hi Teodor,

As to conservation, there is only one truly professional way to save the piece once and for all.

Put the item just the way it is right away in a water proof box and cover it with distilled water. The water should be renewed daily until no more bubbles can be noticed arising. By then, all the obnoxious yellowish salt particles should have been washed out.

Next, thoroughly dry the piece in an oven at ca. 150° Celsius for about two hours and let it cool down.

Then make a watered solution of tannin, a yellowish powder available at drugstores, and let the item rest in that solution, completely covered, for about 24 hours; turn it around one or two times. Take it out and rub it dry and there will no more problems arise whatsoever.

The method you suggested is purely chaotic and bound to destroy the item in the long run as the salt particles will unharmed remain in the metal and continue their destructive work beneath the lacquer or wax layer. Any acid cleaning will lead to heavy substantial losses and ruin the surface irrevocably.

Best,
Michael

Matchlock · 8th October 2009, 02:24 PM

I do not think the grip is actually of ivory, it is most probably staghorn or bone instead.

I have often seen excavated bone grips turned green, mostly from copper oxidation (verdigris); maybe the iron sleeve at the base of the grip is copper or brass brazed.

Michael

TVV · 8th October 2009, 06:14 PM

Michael,

Thank you very much for your reply and conservations tip - I will advise my friend to try the procedure you suggested. In the final step, is there a recommended ratio for the tannin solution, such as this many grams of tannin per this many liters of water?

Thank you,
Teodor

8th October 2009, 11:51 AM	#1
Matchlock (deceased) Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Bavaria, Germany - the center of 15th and 16th century gunmaking Posts: 4,310	Hi Teodor, As to conservation, there is only one truly professional way to save the piece once and for all. Put the item just the way it is right away in a water proof box and cover it with distilled water. The water should be renewed daily until no more bubbles can be noticed arising. By then, all the obnoxious yellowish salt particles should have been washed out. Next, thoroughly dry the piece in an oven at ca. 150° Celsius for about two hours and let it cool down. Then make a watered solution of tannin, a yellowish powder available at drugstores, and let the item rest in that solution, completely covered, for about 24 hours; turn it around one or two times. Take it out and rub it dry and there will no more problems arise whatsoever. The method you suggested is purely chaotic and bound to destroy the item in the long run as the salt particles will unharmed remain in the metal and continue their destructive work beneath the lacquer or wax layer. Any acid cleaning will lead to heavy substantial losses and ruin the surface irrevocably. Best, Michael Last edited by Matchlock; 8th October 2009 at 12:22 PM.

8th October 2009, 02:24 PM	#2
Matchlock (deceased) Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Bavaria, Germany - the center of 15th and 16th century gunmaking Posts: 4,310	I do not think the grip is actually of ivory, it is most probably staghorn or bone instead. I have often seen excavated bone grips turned green, mostly from copper oxidation (verdigris); maybe the iron sleeve at the base of the grip is copper or brass brazed. Michael

8th October 2009, 06:14 PM	#3
TVV Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Bay Area Posts: 1,725	Michael, Thank you very much for your reply and conservations tip - I will advise my friend to try the procedure you suggested. In the final step, is there a recommended ratio for the tannin solution, such as this many grams of tannin per this many liters of water? Thank you, Teodor