Tawdry Tulwar.

Norman McCormick · 13th March 2009, 10:57 PM

Hi David,
Thanks for the info. I'm thinking, from what you've said, regardless of which method of paint removal I use the metal will react to some degree or other. I suppose the first thing, after receipt, will be to post photos and get some opinions as to the age and quality of the piece as a whole and that may determine a particular approach. It looks as if it may be a nice piece but as we are all well aware sellers photos can be 'misleading' at times. Thanks again.
My Regards,
Norman.
P.S. I've had a particularly nasty run in with caustic soda so I'd be happy, if possible, to give anything along those lines a wide berth.

katana · 13th March 2009, 11:54 PM

Hi Norman,
when I said 'caustic' I should have said 'alkaline'. I suppose the effect on the metal surface would be akin to an etch with ,say, vinegar. The 'thinners' is a solvent and would not react with the metal, but can be a little messy, but it works extremely well. I have a Finnish Puukko which some fool had daubed with red paint (all over the curly birch handle.) Thinners and several cloths later, I easily removed the offending paint without damage to the birch

Hope this clarifies things.

Regards David

Pukka Bundook · 14th March 2009, 03:55 AM

Hello Norman,

I think you got nice and lucky!!

I don't know if you can get a product over there called "Circa 1850 finish remover" (or something close to that)

I've found it works awfully well and doesn't even eat your hands. It doesn't discolour metal and removes most paint. I have used it on a gun painted gold all over, and on another painted black!
I just applied it pretty thick, let it sit a few minutes, then rubbed it with fine wire wool. Don't appear to have to wear gloves but it might be smart!

I once used Polly-stripper on something and got some in my eye, it felt like a cat was in there clawing to be out!

Rick · 14th March 2009, 05:33 PM

If you are going to use a solvent based remover you might want to protect the mastic that holds the blade in the hilt . There's always a chance it may soften along with the paint . You might want to melt a little paraffin wax and paint a few layers of it over the mastic .

I would think any decent gel type paint remover will do the trick quite well .
In the US that would mean 5F5 or Strypeeze .

Norman McCormick · 16th March 2009, 02:45 PM

Hi Guys,
Many thanks for all the suggestions, will talk later about the best way to go about paint removal. It arrived today so a quick few photos just now will take better ones later. Once again thanks for all the help.
My Regards,
Norman.

katana · 16th March 2009, 03:15 PM

Hi Norman,
looks to be a good recent Tulwar (20th C) crisply stamped as well. Quality of recent swords seems to vary enormously (especially the blades). Any idea as to the hilt being steel or brass ? Personally I think the hilt looks OK as it is ....but it would look much more traditional without the paint.

Regards David

Norman McCormick · 16th March 2009, 11:44 PM

Hi,
David thanks for your thoughts, steel hilt. I have some more photos which may or may not make a difference. I wasn't going to do anything with the sword until tomorrow but I noticed that the black paint on the hilt had a crack in it so I started idly picking off the black paint with my fingernail, not as hard as the steel so I reckoned no harm. I'll let the photos do the talking. Is it something 'nice' or just a previous attempt with gold paint? I also noticed that the back edge of the blade had a little pattern to it. The photos are not good, artificial light and a compact camera, I'll take some more tomorrow with my SLR if it is warranted. I may just be seeing things but I want to make sure before I 'restore' it any more. Thanks as usual for all and any thoughts.
My Regards,
Norman.

13th March 2009, 10:57 PM	#1
Norman McCormick Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,632	Hi David, Thanks for the info. I'm thinking, from what you've said, regardless of which method of paint removal I use the metal will react to some degree or other. I suppose the first thing, after receipt, will be to post photos and get some opinions as to the age and quality of the piece as a whole and that may determine a particular approach. It looks as if it may be a nice piece but as we are all well aware sellers photos can be 'misleading' at times. Thanks again. My Regards, Norman. P.S. I've had a particularly nasty run in with caustic soda so I'd be happy, if possible, to give anything along those lines a wide berth. Last edited by Norman McCormick; 13th March 2009 at 11:10 PM.

16th March 2009, 02:45 PM	#5
Norman McCormick Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,632	Hi Guys, Many thanks for all the suggestions, will talk later about the best way to go about paint removal. It arrived today so a quick few photos just now will take better ones later. Once again thanks for all the help. My Regards, Norman. Attached Images

16th March 2009, 11:44 PM	#7
Norman McCormick Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 1,632	Hi, David thanks for your thoughts, steel hilt. I have some more photos which may or may not make a difference. I wasn't going to do anything with the sword until tomorrow but I noticed that the black paint on the hilt had a crack in it so I started idly picking off the black paint with my fingernail, not as hard as the steel so I reckoned no harm. I'll let the photos do the talking. Is it something 'nice' or just a previous attempt with gold paint? I also noticed that the back edge of the blade had a little pattern to it. The photos are not good, artificial light and a compact camera, I'll take some more tomorrow with my SLR if it is warranted. I may just be seeing things but I want to make sure before I 'restore' it any more. Thanks as usual for all and any thoughts. My Regards, Norman. Attached Images

13th March 2009, 11:54 PM	#2
katana Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kent Posts: 2,658	Hi Norman, when I said 'caustic' I should have said 'alkaline'. I suppose the effect on the metal surface would be akin to an etch with ,say, vinegar. The 'thinners' is a solvent and would not react with the metal, but can be a little messy, but it works extremely well. I have a Finnish Puukko which some fool had daubed with red paint (all over the curly birch handle.) Thinners and several cloths later, I easily removed the offending paint without damage to the birch Hope this clarifies things. Regards David

14th March 2009, 03:55 AM	#3
Pukka Bundook Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 803	Hello Norman, I think you got nice and lucky!! I don't know if you can get a product over there called "Circa 1850 finish remover" (or something close to that) I've found it works awfully well and doesn't even eat your hands. It doesn't discolour metal and removes most paint. I have used it on a gun painted gold all over, and on another painted black! I just applied it pretty thick, let it sit a few minutes, then rubbed it with fine wire wool. Don't appear to have to wear gloves but it might be smart! I once used Polly-stripper on something and got some in my eye, it felt like a cat was in there clawing to be out!

14th March 2009, 05:33 PM	#4
Rick Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,347	If you are going to use a solvent based remover you might want to protect the mastic that holds the blade in the hilt . There's always a chance it may soften along with the paint . You might want to melt a little paraffin wax and paint a few layers of it over the mastic . I would think any decent gel type paint remover will do the trick quite well . In the US that would mean 5F5 or Strypeeze .

16th March 2009, 03:15 PM	#6
katana Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kent Posts: 2,658	Hi Norman, looks to be a good recent Tulwar (20th C) crisply stamped as well. Quality of recent swords seems to vary enormously (especially the blades). Any idea as to the hilt being steel or brass ? Personally I think the hilt looks OK as it is ....but it would look much more traditional without the paint. Regards David