Albanian Jambiya/Khanjar Wootz?

Lew · 26th July 2008, 08:27 PM

Here is a better pic you can see the pattern but it's not high contrast.

Atlantia · 26th July 2008, 09:03 PM

Another nice find Lew,
How are you etching it, dipping or painting on?
Would switching to citric acid now make any difference?

Lew · 26th July 2008, 09:24 PM

Atlantia

I'm painting it on and I don't know if citric acid will do a good job on it?

Lew

ward · 26th July 2008, 09:47 PM

if I may suggest more sanding got down to 2500 also still half your conentrate will take longer but will come out. you need to get rid of some pitting slow and sure. I think you should be able to get a decent pattern out of it. slow and sure. citric is not going to cut it on this tyoe of damascus. light etches neutralizing in between. you can use warm vinigar as last step

Atlantia · 26th July 2008, 10:48 PM

I'm intrigued, I've never used ferric chloride.
I've always bathed as well, does it need to be mixed with a carrier to keep it on the blade? If not how do you stop it being patchy?
I like citric, mostly because its good and slow and idiot proof (an important factor for me! lol)
Which reminds me, Albanian? Wootz?
Have you guys mapped the geographical use of wootz? I wouldn't have even thought to check this dagger even though its a jambiya.

Cant wait to see the results on it!!

gene

P.S. I realise the blade must be a trade item.

ward · 27th July 2008, 12:43 AM

ferric chloride,ferric sulphate,sulpuratic acid,muratic acid, photographic fixer,whosteerchester sauce,pinnaple,lime,lemon and various vinegars are common to use.Some are salts some are acids I would strongly suggest you learn something about chemistry before using these. Some of these are extremly toxic and need to be greatly diluted to work properly. You can also trash the piece very quickly

josh stout · 27th July 2008, 03:45 PM

I would love to see a thread just on etching. I know the topic is often discussed and most people know the basics, but many questions remain.

Already asked in this thread: How do you keep a thin etchant painted on from being patchy?

When working with vinegar, I just put the whole blade in a PVC tube and let it sit. How does painting it on work in practice?

With ferric chloride, many times the blade turns out kind of greenish, and woots experts say this is not a good color, but on the blade in this thread, the colors look like a traditional blend of grays. Is this a factor of the steel or the technique?

I also have allot of uncertainty about how much to clean something after an etch. With some things it is obvious, but with others, if I even just wipe them with a backing soda soaked paper towel, most of the patterns disappear. If I do my usual cleanup with a 4000 grit paper, I am left with only the hardened edges showing.

Josh

26th July 2008, 08:27 PM	#1
Lew (deceased) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: East Coast USA Posts: 3,191	Here is a better pic you can see the pattern but it's not high contrast. Attached Images

26th July 2008, 10:48 PM	#5
Atlantia Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: The Sharp end Posts: 2,928	I'm intrigued, I've never used ferric chloride. I've always bathed as well, does it need to be mixed with a carrier to keep it on the blade? If not how do you stop it being patchy? I like citric, mostly because its good and slow and idiot proof (an important factor for me! lol) Which reminds me, Albanian? Wootz? Have you guys mapped the geographical use of wootz? I wouldn't have even thought to check this dagger even though its a jambiya. Cant wait to see the results on it!! gene P.S. I realise the blade must be a trade item. Last edited by Atlantia; 27th July 2008 at 04:02 PM.

26th July 2008, 09:03 PM	#2
Atlantia Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: The Sharp end Posts: 2,928	Another nice find Lew, How are you etching it, dipping or painting on? Would switching to citric acid now make any difference?

26th July 2008, 09:24 PM	#3
Lew (deceased) Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: East Coast USA Posts: 3,191	Atlantia I'm painting it on and I don't know if citric acid will do a good job on it? Lew

26th July 2008, 09:47 PM	#4
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	if I may suggest more sanding got down to 2500 also still half your conentrate will take longer but will come out. you need to get rid of some pitting slow and sure. I think you should be able to get a decent pattern out of it. slow and sure. citric is not going to cut it on this tyoe of damascus. light etches neutralizing in between. you can use warm vinigar as last step

27th July 2008, 12:43 AM	#6
ward Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 637	ferric chloride,ferric sulphate,sulpuratic acid,muratic acid, photographic fixer,whosteerchester sauce,pinnaple,lime,lemon and various vinegars are common to use.Some are salts some are acids I would strongly suggest you learn something about chemistry before using these. Some of these are extremly toxic and need to be greatly diluted to work properly. You can also trash the piece very quickly

27th July 2008, 03:45 PM	#7
josh stout Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 407	I would love to see a thread just on etching. I know the topic is often discussed and most people know the basics, but many questions remain. Already asked in this thread: How do you keep a thin etchant painted on from being patchy? When working with vinegar, I just put the whole blade in a PVC tube and let it sit. How does painting it on work in practice? With ferric chloride, many times the blade turns out kind of greenish, and woots experts say this is not a good color, but on the blade in this thread, the colors look like a traditional blend of grays. Is this a factor of the steel or the technique? I also have allot of uncertainty about how much to clean something after an etch. With some things it is obvious, but with others, if I even just wipe them with a backing soda soaked paper towel, most of the patterns disappear. If I do my usual cleanup with a 4000 grit paper, I am left with only the hardened edges showing. Josh