Another Moro Kris for comment!

[kai]

Thanks, Maurice, for posting your kris!

BTW, what's the length of the blade?

Originally Posted by David

My guess would be that the pommel and probably the hilt as well were married to this blade specifically for the collectors market.

The grip rings look legit but I also suspect that the pommel is a replacement; possibly also the brass ferrule.

Certainly the pommel wasn't carved yesterday, but it looks like the latter half of the 20th century.

Some of the pommels coming out of Turgaya today look quite neat - this one is crudely carved and also the motifs don't seem regular okir. Same with the ferrule...

Stylistically it looks a bit off and doesn't have the grace and curve of earlier pieces. Something not quite Moro about it, but that could just be in the level of execution.

The rectangular base of the pommel is weird - I wouldn't be surprised if it as well as the ferrule were not done by Moro artisans.

The blade, as commented on, is much older, probably late 19th - early 20thC.

I'd guess at early 20th c. - it's a good, genuine blade which screams for a slight etch with hot vinegar...

Regards,
Kai

[Bill]

[QUOTE=kai]



The grip rings look legit but I also suspect that the pommel is a replacement; possibly also the brass ferrule.



The grip rings are machine made, you can buy them from large jewlery suppy houses (you buy by the inch) & the ferrule has been cut with a rotary drill like a Dremel. It appears to be ivory but I'm not sure what type. Because a crack has been filled does not suggest age, rather the project was started with a cracked piece. I have a Ivory kris that has fairly good providence that it was made around 1965 & already has patina. Someone went to a lot of effort & spent on materials.Everything but the blade, stirrup, & perhaps the wood from the scabbard is done within the last 5 years.

[kai]

The grip rings are machine made, you can buy them from large jewlery suppy houses (you buy by the inch) & the ferrule has been cut with a rotary drill like a Dremel.

Uuuh, I glanced over the ring details; they appear to have been soldered into place, too.
I didn't want to sound too paranoid but Bill seems to be right...

I have a Ivory kris that has fairly good providence that it was made around 1965 & already has patina.

Ivory often gets patinated which makes it very difficult to ascertain age.

Everything but the blade, stirrup, & perhaps the wood from the scabbard is done within the last 5 years.

Yup, that's quite possible. Thanks, Bill!

Regards,
Kai

[Battara]

HI folks - been away for a couple of days. ....I won't repeat what has already been said. I will say that the entire hilt is brand new - the silver work has rings that were made of cast pattern wire made within the past 10 years and then soft soldered, not the kind of work done back then nor of great quality. Also the brass work at the bottom is engraved - again not what was done in true Moro work and the engravings are poorly done. The pommel I suspect is plastic or some other material other than ivory. If ivory, not old ivory and roughly carved and done in a style not in keeping with Moro traditions of even the early 20th century.

I would be curious to see if the blade is laminated - ganga looks like it could be separate, but can't tell as easily from the photos. Sorry for the bad news.

[Maurice]

Originally Posted by kai

Thanks, Maurice, for posting your kris!

No Thanks, Kai!

Originally Posted by kai

BTW, what's the length of the blade?

The length of the blade is 59 cm.

Originally Posted by kai

I'd guess at early 20th c. - it's a good, genuine blade which screams for a slight etch with hot vinegar...

The seller told me it was 19th century (but you could be right ofcourse).

I noticed the blade screams for an etch, but I have to try finding out what is the best way of etching the blade. I am not familiar with that. Maybe when you have some time left you sent me an email how to do it step for step, and what time it takes.



Generally:
Thanks gentlemen for sharing all your vision on my "friend".

Kind regards,
Maurice

[kai]

Hello Maurice,

The length of the blade is 59 cm.

A bit over 23 inches.

I'd love to hear wether others would place this as Maguindanao.

The seller told me it was 19th century (but you could be right ofcourse).

Even sellers who know/follow Cato's classification tend to be generous and a pre-1930 blade is often referred to as 19th century...

The line of separation of the gangya as well as the file work make me think 1900-1930 as most likely period. I can't positively exclude a late 19th century origin though. Wether a blade got forged a few years before or after that turn of the century doesn't make a decisive difference regarding craftmanship IME. There are fairly "basic" mid 19th century blades and excellent early 20th century blades... IMVHO one always has to evaluate the craftmanship of any given kris (if desired) rather than going by any classification criteria.

I noticed the blade screams for an etch, but I have to try finding out what is the best way of etching the blade. I am not familiar with that. Maybe when you have some time left you sent me an email how to do it step for step, and what time it takes.

You can do what you're used from Indonesian blades - short of Warangan, that is.

Here a short exposition of my basic routine (some info added for less experienced readers but far from comprehensive - please ask questions if not 100% sure!):

I start with any cleaning needed (fruit juice or vinegar), followed by any polishing (by hand) if needed. Wrap hilt with plastic foil for protection or, preferably (if possible), remove hilt.

Degrease thoroughly (important for getting an even etch); heat vinegar and blade and apply generously (careful: Moro blades like to take a bite!). Stop if the staining looks nice. Wipe off the vinegar with an oiled cloth and heat the blade to boiling temperature (not much higher!) for a few minutes - this ascertains that no residual vinegar/water is left on the blade nor in any crevices of the steel (to avoid ongoing corrosion). Be careful since this may be hot enough to losen the resin attaching the hilt if you haven't choosen to remove the blade to begin with (which greatly helps to ease things but can be unpossible without ruining old grip wraps which would be a shame).

Finally, oil the blade (let it "dry," wipe off excess oil) and/or wax the blade as preferred.

It's not rare that you can see some pattern but can't get it nicely visible (if the blade got polished with power tools, it's not rare to see no pattern to speak of at all). A few rounds of gentle polishing and repeated etching can do wonders in those cases...

Regards,
Kai