Good news /bad news Tulwar.

G. McCormack · 16th February 2007, 05:46 AM

Sounds like a good project for you! Lets see some pictures. If its as bad as it sounds, I'd guess you'd be well served by removing the blade from the hilt and polishing it completely, starting with some pretty rough paper.

Pukka Bundook · 16th February 2007, 08:48 PM

Here are the pictures:

Rick · 16th February 2007, 09:39 PM

IMO the point has been reground; yelman seems too short.

Jens Nordlunde · 16th February 2007, 09:52 PM

I have a tulwar with a yelman of the same size, but i will write mort to morrow.

katana · 17th February 2007, 12:14 AM

A belt sander may be a good idea to remove most of the deep scratches, but used lightly....it is too easy to get 'carried away' and remove too much metal. Once the worse scratches are removed, I would recommend coarse 'wet and dry' abrasive paper used with light mineral oil or WD40, progressively using finer grades.
It may be a good idea to give the blade an 'etch' before you reach the final 'sanding ' to see if you have an interesting pattern in the blade

From there you could decide whether to polish or smooth the blade a little more and then re-etch. my 0.02 cents worth.

Pukka Bundook · 17th February 2007, 06:48 AM

Thank you for the input everyone, and advice of how to go about it.

There may be one or two areas where I can't remove the grind-marks properly, where the grinder did some open-cast mining whilst removing pits!

Correction;
A file will touch it, but only with plenty of pressure behind it, or it will skid.

I think this blade may have been in a seriouse conflict at some time,as about 9" of the blade in the 'sweet spot' is rather badly damaged with nicks, in fact the sharp edge is more-or-less missing in this area.

Q.;- If I'm smoothing out the blade, should I leave the damaged section as a 'flat spot' or should I recontour the blade a bit to make the damaged portion blend in somewhat??

It's good to have such a learned group as this to seek advice from!!
Thanks again,
R.

katana · 17th February 2007, 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pukka Bundook

Q.;- If I'm smoothing out the blade, should I leave the damaged section as a 'flat spot' or should I recontour the blade a bit to make the damaged portion blend in somewhat??

R.

I think, most would agree, that this is down to personal taste. The concern is that by 'removing' the damaged area you could change the blade profile and the curve will not be as uniform as it once was. If the re-profiling would not cause this problem...then I personally.. would do it ...leaving some of the damage (it is , afterall, part of its history).
If the sword was still in constant use, an armourer would have the blade reground with a 'new' edge......especially around a damaged 'sweet spot'....afterall it would lose its cutting abilities if this area was blunt. I think the compromise, you suggested ... re-contour the blade a bit....sounds good to me.

16th February 2007, 08:48 PM	#2
Pukka Bundook Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 803	Pics Here are the pictures: Attached Images

16th February 2007, 05:46 AM	#1
G. McCormack Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Tallahassee, FL Posts: 131	Sounds like a good project for you! Lets see some pictures. If its as bad as it sounds, I'd guess you'd be well served by removing the blade from the hilt and polishing it completely, starting with some pretty rough paper.

16th February 2007, 09:39 PM	#3
Rick Vikingsword Staff Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 6,347	IMO the point has been reground; yelman seems too short.

16th February 2007, 09:52 PM	#4
Jens Nordlunde Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Europe Posts: 2,718	I have a tulwar with a yelman of the same size, but i will write mort to morrow.

17th February 2007, 12:14 AM	#5
katana Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Kent Posts: 2,658	A belt sander may be a good idea to remove most of the deep scratches, but used lightly....it is too easy to get 'carried away' and remove too much metal. Once the worse scratches are removed, I would recommend coarse 'wet and dry' abrasive paper used with light mineral oil or WD40, progressively using finer grades. It may be a good idea to give the blade an 'etch' before you reach the final 'sanding ' to see if you have an interesting pattern in the blade From there you could decide whether to polish or smooth the blade a little more and then re-etch. my 0.02 cents worth.

17th February 2007, 06:48 AM	#6
Pukka Bundook Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 803	Thank you for the input everyone, and advice of how to go about it. There may be one or two areas where I can't remove the grind-marks properly, where the grinder did some open-cast mining whilst removing pits! Correction; A file will touch it, but only with plenty of pressure behind it, or it will skid. I think this blade may have been in a seriouse conflict at some time,as about 9" of the blade in the 'sweet spot' is rather badly damaged with nicks, in fact the sharp edge is more-or-less missing in this area. Q.;- If I'm smoothing out the blade, should I leave the damaged section as a 'flat spot' or should I recontour the blade a bit to make the damaged portion blend in somewhat?? It's good to have such a learned group as this to seek advice from!! Thanks again, R.