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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,255
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Hello Alan,
I'm glad you didn't sold this kris - seems to be a really, really nice kalis seko from Sulu! That must be a twist core blade (search this forum for more info and pics of other pieces). The blade needs to be slightly etched to make the pattern more easily visible (apparently polished off by an misinformed US veteran as is often the case with war souvenirs); please consider to let this do by someone like Battara if you don't feel comfortable with a DIY approach. It would be very interesting to test those different metals/alloys utilized in the fittings! I wouldn't be surprised if the asang-asang are made from swaasa - look more like copper to me though. Regards, Kai |
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Italia
Posts: 1,243
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Beautiful
!! Is the pommel carved from hornbill? See this other thread http://www.vikingsword.com/vb/showthread.php?t=638 |
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#3 | |
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Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Aussie Bush
Posts: 4,523
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Flavio:
I believe that is a striped wood called banati, which is used quite often for pommels on barung, kris, kampilan, etc. It's a very desirable and expensive wood among moro communities. Ian. Quote:
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#4 | |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Italia
Posts: 1,243
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Quote:
Yes, i see now that the top piece of the pommel is a piece of ivory (is right? ) glued to the banati part, sorry
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 164
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If I decide to try to etch this blade myself , should I try polishing it better first to remove the old polish lines and swirls or should I just do the etching?
Any toughts on the best way a total novice should atempt to etch such a fine sword would be appreciated.Also do I need to worry about solution on the blade clamps? I am not going to attempt anything until I feel I have the right info to do it Thanks Last edited by Alan62; 6th January 2007 at 11:40 PM. |
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#6 |
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EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,345
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NO I don't think any polishing is needed (based on what I can see in the pictures). The fastest way may be using ferrous cloride mixed with water. However, it is highly corrosive and the old way (and safest way) is to use heated citrus juice and vinegar (heat the blade too). On the clamps, steel wool (0000) would do fine on these particular ones (do it gently).
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 164
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Thanks Battara, I will do as you say
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#8 | |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,255
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Quote:
Regards, Kai |
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