My first post and lots of questions!!

jwkiernan · 2nd December 2006, 03:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick

The blade seems like polished Balinese work
Turn the handle 180 degrees.

Rick/all,

Thank you for all of the insight that you've given me thus far. Could you please explain a bit more on polished Balinese work. Does this mean that after the blade is forged it is etched/stained and then polished rather then leaving the rougher etched look? (Please feel free to correct my terminology)

Also, you mention that the ukiran needs to be turned 180. I attempted to remove it (my others can be moved), this one won't budge.....any ideas about removing it? I tapped lightly on the ganja with a wooden mallet, maybe I need to become a bit more aggressive. I would like to get it removed so that I can soak the blade in WD40 as was suggested.

I have attached a photo of the group of my keris's. Thank you all for your kind advice and help. Your continued assistance and comments will be appreciated!!! Take care.

Respectfully,

John

A. G. Maisey · 2nd December 2006, 09:11 AM

When a keris handle will not move it could be because of a number of reasons:-

it might be glued in place with a traditional adhesive

it might be glued in place with a modern adhesive, such as araldite

it might be rusted onto the binding of tang used to achieve a pressure fit

it might be rusted to the handle itself.

I suggest that you firstly try wrapping some cloth around the blade so you can grip it, then trying to twist the handle backwards and forth. Start gently and gradually increase pressure. If you can get just a little bit of movement you may find that you can gradually improve this.

If this does not work you must heat the sorsoran area of the blade gently, hold the blade a few inches back from the heat and don't let it get hotter than is comfortable for your hand, continually retry to twist the handle.

It is sometimes useful to let it heat up, let it cool down and then reheat a few times.

For a heat source I suggest you use a small kerosene lamp or a candle.

The risks you run are these:- if you force the handle too much you can break the tang; this is not a total disaster but its not good. Tangs can be repaired.
You may alter the appearance of the blade stain where it has been heated. This is not certain, but it is a possibility. If this happens you need to do a complete strip and restain.
This is an old ivory handle. You run the risk of splitting the handle when you twist, or having it completely come apart in your hand. There is the possibility that the seller used araldite to stabilise a handle that was on the edge of falling apart.

I suggest you consider the risks before deciding how to proceed.

DaveS · 8th December 2006, 04:28 AM

John: I have to agree with Alan. That is a beautiful madura handle, and you don,t want to risk breaking it, so go slow. As far as an oil for the ivory, i use Old English Furniture Oil. It will just make a piece of ivory come alive. I also use it on wood handles, horn and antler look much better too. But PLEASE do not use it on bone. It makes bone look very greasy. Don,t ask me how i know. If you ever put it on a bone handle by mistake then soaking the handle in acetone usually will leach out the oil without harming the handle..........Dave

2nd December 2006, 09:11 AM	#2
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,085	When a keris handle will not move it could be because of a number of reasons:- it might be glued in place with a traditional adhesive it might be glued in place with a modern adhesive, such as araldite it might be rusted onto the binding of tang used to achieve a pressure fit it might be rusted to the handle itself. I suggest that you firstly try wrapping some cloth around the blade so you can grip it, then trying to twist the handle backwards and forth. Start gently and gradually increase pressure. If you can get just a little bit of movement you may find that you can gradually improve this. If this does not work you must heat the sorsoran area of the blade gently, hold the blade a few inches back from the heat and don't let it get hotter than is comfortable for your hand, continually retry to twist the handle. It is sometimes useful to let it heat up, let it cool down and then reheat a few times. For a heat source I suggest you use a small kerosene lamp or a candle. The risks you run are these:- if you force the handle too much you can break the tang; this is not a total disaster but its not good. Tangs can be repaired. You may alter the appearance of the blade stain where it has been heated. This is not certain, but it is a possibility. If this happens you need to do a complete strip and restain. This is an old ivory handle. You run the risk of splitting the handle when you twist, or having it completely come apart in your hand. There is the possibility that the seller used araldite to stabilise a handle that was on the edge of falling apart. I suggest you consider the risks before deciding how to proceed.

8th December 2006, 04:28 AM	#3
DaveS Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 327	John: I have to agree with Alan. That is a beautiful madura handle, and you don,t want to risk breaking it, so go slow. As far as an oil for the ivory, i use Old English Furniture Oil. It will just make a piece of ivory come alive. I also use it on wood handles, horn and antler look much better too. But PLEASE do not use it on bone. It makes bone look very greasy. Don,t ask me how i know. If you ever put it on a bone handle by mistake then soaking the handle in acetone usually will leach out the oil without harming the handle..........Dave