Etch keris using Nital?

David · 30th October 2006, 05:58 PM

Hi Newsteel. If you search both the present and old forum you will no doubt come across many threads that discuss not only the traditional warangan method of staining keris blades and many alternative methods as well. I did a search on nital and unfortunately i could not find any before and after examples of metals to see how they react. I will say that it is my general understanding that no other method of keris staining will give you what is traditionally considered to be the correct color of staining that arsenic and lime give. It should also be kept in mind that many commercial etchants are a might bit stronger that fruit acids and damage to your blade from a too powerful acid would be irreversible. Also keep in mind that these modern etchants are designed for new steel (like your name) and that the degree of etch might end up being more servere on an old 18th or 19th century blade that has already gone through years of erosion from etching and wear. My advice would be to stick to traditional methods. They have, afterall, worked well for centuries. If you have trouble obtaining arsenic, or don't care to work with the stuff, you can probably find someone to do it for you. Since you live in Malaysia that shouldn't be a problem.

30th October 2006, 05:58 PM	#2
David Keris forum moderator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Nova Scotia Posts: 7,229	Hi Newsteel. If you search both the present and old forum you will no doubt come across many threads that discuss not only the traditional warangan method of staining keris blades and many alternative methods as well. I did a search on nital and unfortunately i could not find any before and after examples of metals to see how they react. I will say that it is my general understanding that no other method of keris staining will give you what is traditionally considered to be the correct color of staining that arsenic and lime give. It should also be kept in mind that many commercial etchants are a might bit stronger that fruit acids and damage to your blade from a too powerful acid would be irreversible. Also keep in mind that these modern etchants are designed for new steel (like your name) and that the degree of etch might end up being more servere on an old 18th or 19th century blade that has already gone through years of erosion from etching and wear. My advice would be to stick to traditional methods. They have, afterall, worked well for centuries. If you have trouble obtaining arsenic, or don't care to work with the stuff, you can probably find someone to do it for you. Since you live in Malaysia that shouldn't be a problem.