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#1 | |
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Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,250
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Quote:
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#2 |
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Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,376
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When I'm finally finished with the rust treatment I'll post the blade before I try an etch with super strong coffee. Right now the blade is in a heavy coating of De-corroder wrapped in plastic wrap to keep it from drying out too quickly.
Something occurred to me about the subject under discussion: there are many variations in quality of steel and pamor material; would this difference not interfere with a consistent result in whatever rust treatment is involved? /5/20 Well, here are pictures of this blade after treatment with Metal De-corroder (a Renaissance product) a hot rinse and before any etching has been attempted. It was quite crusty and the color difference was not aparrent; no before pics, sorry.
Last edited by Rick; 20th May 2018 at 05:37 PM. |
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#3 |
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Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,376
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Bump
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 292
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Would be interesting to see your post-etching results, Rick.
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#5 |
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Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,376
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Yes it would; if I had anything that could produce a warangan type of etch.
I'm reasonably happy just to see a contrast between the metals; the EPA doesn't want me to possess arsenic trioxide.
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#6 | |
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Keris forum moderator
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 7,250
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Quote:
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#7 |
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Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,376
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I bought a small jar of instant and made a paste, applied it to the blade and all that happened was an increase in contrast between the pamor and the core.
Not really worth belaboring the board with another tombak picture.. |
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