What do you use to polish your....Silver :) Also what was used historically? & wax?

[Nathaniel]

Roland, have you heard of Metarex polishing cloth? It seems to be a German product. A professional conservator recommended it. He said his family (multi generational art conservators) had used Metarex for many years. At present it seems to be marketed for polishing silver frets of guitars and other musical instruments hardware.

[Nathaniel]

An antique dealer (non weapons) had told me that he uses Hagerty Silver Foam.

[Nathaniel]

I had mentioned that in Thailand and other south east Asian countries they use Tamarid traditionally for silver polish. I thought I would post a picture to show a people who may not know what a Tamarind is. It's a very delicious fruit as well

[A. G. Maisey]

Did I say that Roland?

I must have been drunk at the time.

For unfinished wood I take it to a fine garnet paper, probably about 800 is as fine as you'd want to go, then raise the grain with steam, polish with 00 steel wool, when the grain won't raise any more, polish with 0000.

What you do after that depends a bit on what sort of finish you want, and on the wood itself. You might want to steam it again after the first polish with 0000, and then do another 0000 polish, or more than one, or you might want to apply your finish and cut back between coats with 00 and 0000, there are number of ways you can go.

If the end finish is too bright you can take some of gloss out of it with 0000.

If restoring a previous varnish or french polish finish, car polish + gum turpentine will clean it up nicely, and then use a good quality furniture wax.

Depending on what the existing finish looks like, you might like to try a good furniture oil, like Sheraton, and when it has thoroughly dried, then use a good quality furniture wax.

A quick easy finish on new wood is something like Danish oil.

If you want to use a traditional french polish, you must remember to use the pad in a figure eight pattern, and you might need anything up to 20 coats.

[Nathaniel]

Originally Posted by A. G. Maisey

Did I say that Roland?

I must have been drunk at the time.

For unfinished wood I take it to a fine garnet paper, probably about 800 is as fine as you'd want to go, then raise the grain with steam, polish with 00 steel wool, when the grain won't raise any more, polish with 0000.

What you do after that depends a bit on what sort of finish you want, and on the wood itself. You might want to steam it again after the first polish with 0000, and then do another 0000 polish, or more than one, or you might want to apply your finish and cut back between coats with 00 and 0000, there are number of ways you can go.

If the end finish is too bright you can take some of gloss out of it with 0000.

If restoring a previous varnish or french polish finish, car polish + gum turpentine will clean it up nicely, and then use a good quality furniture wax.

Depending on what the existing finish looks like, you might like to try a good furniture oil, like Sheraton, and when it has thoroughly dried, then use a good quality furniture wax.

A quick easy finish on new wood is something like Danish oil.

If you want to use a traditional french polish, you must remember to use the pad in a figure eight pattern, and you might need anything up to 20 coats.

Thanks Alan for the detailed guide!

[Battara]

The problem with products on the market for silver is that if it is a chemical dip then it will eat into the surface of the silver.

If it is a cloth, yes it will produce micro-scratches.

But anything that takes the sulfur oxide off silver will leave some kind of mark on the silver.

Personally, I also make jewelry as well as restoring antique weaponry. I use the cloth as the final end of polishing and cleaning. This is a standard practice in jewelry making, and thus I also use this on silver fittings on weaponry (as well as any silver).

And don't forget that in reality, cleaning is polishing, just on a lighter level.

[Nathaniel]

Originally Posted by Battara

The problem with products on the market for silver is that if it is a chemical dip then it will eat into the surface of the silver.

If it is a cloth, yes it will produce micro-scratches.

But anything that takes the sulfur oxide off silver will leave some kind of mark on the silver.

Personally, I also make jewelry as well as restoring antique weaponry. I use the cloth as the final end of polishing and cleaning. This is a standard practice in jewelry making, and thus I also use this on silver fittings on weaponry (as well as any silver).

And don't forget that in reality, cleaning is polishing, just on a lighter level.

Thanks for the good insight Jose!

[Machetero]

Many Malaysian Antique dealers I've met swear by this Chinese Face powder called Sam Fong Hoi Tong.
It's got chalk in it so its kind of abrasive (on a microscopic level), but it's pretty authentic and cool.
When I don't use the powder i just rub silver with a cloth and some mineral oil.

Here's a picture of the box

[sfenoid13]

I have been using NEVR-DULL for all my swords for cleaning and polishing purposes. It works like magic. After cleaning them with this I apply WD40. Results are great (i have tried may other things as well but this combo works best).