Technical problem scabbard

ariel · 2nd March 2016, 11:55 PM

My guess it depends largely on the glue.

Shakethetrees · 3rd March 2016, 05:29 AM

I've often found a gentle application of heat will soften some glues and even break the glue/metal bond of epoxy.

The trick is to go slow and heat to the point of smoke and then wrap a rag around it and wiggle it around a bit. Reheat if necessary.

If it's done correctly the glue itself will be altered but the wooden liner shouldn't char too badly. The trick is to go slowly and carefully. This works best with pitch type adhesives, shellac, gum obtained from trees, etc. if you're sure a shellac or organic heat activated resin was used, initially heat only where it can freely flow out. If it is heated where the expanding resin is trapped it can distort or split the metal mounts or, in an extreme case, explode! (Had this happen with a piece of silver I was experimenting with many years ago! It sounded like a .45 going off! I was lucky, it blew out at eye level but pointing away from my face!)

Epoxy can be urged to let go as well, but a slightly higher heat is necessary.

Another alternative would be to dribble solvent down the metal. You have to have some idea of what the adhesive is for this so work properly.

If you're OK with doing a complete rebuild of the scabbard you can soak the whole thing and remove the liner in pieces. Once the solvent vaporizes it can be reglued with white glue.

Kubur · 3rd March 2016, 09:12 AM

As always very usefull, thank you very much shakethethree.

Subsidiary question, when you use Silvo or Mirror to clean and polish the silver. This product is quite aggressive and let some (acid) white marks.
How do you remove these white marks?
Thanks!!

Jens Nordlunde · 3rd March 2016, 06:09 PM

The white traces/remains can be removed with a tooth bruch.

Shakethetrees · 3rd March 2016, 06:18 PM

Use a little denatured alcohol on the toothbrush if the polish residue is dry and caked into the details.

kahnjar1 · 3rd March 2016, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kubur

As always very usefull, thank you very much shakethethree.

Subsidiary question, when you use Silvo or Mirror to clean and polish the silver. This product is quite aggressive and let some (acid) white marks.
How do you remove these white marks?
Thanks!!

Short answer is do not use Silvo. There is a product on the market by GODDARDS called Silver Cloth. Simply rub with that. No residue of any sort. Your local Supermarket should stock it.
Stu

Kubur · 26th April 2016, 06:52 PM

Hi guys,

Problem solved with...WD40.
I didnt know tat it was a solvant for glue.

Best,
Kubur

Shakethetrees · 27th April 2016, 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kubur

Hi guys,

Problem solved with...WD40.
I didnt know tat it was a solvant for glue.

Best,
Kubur

It's a remarkable solvent and pretty benign.

Battara · 27th April 2016, 03:38 PM

Looks so much better!

26th April 2016, 06:52 PM	#7
Kubur Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 2,145	Hi guys, Problem solved with...WD40. I didnt know tat it was a solvant for glue. Best, Kubur Attached Images

2nd March 2016, 11:55 PM	#1
ariel Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ann Arbor, MI Posts: 5,503	My guess it depends largely on the glue.

3rd March 2016, 05:29 AM	#2
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	I've often found a gentle application of heat will soften some glues and even break the glue/metal bond of epoxy. The trick is to go slow and heat to the point of smoke and then wrap a rag around it and wiggle it around a bit. Reheat if necessary. If it's done correctly the glue itself will be altered but the wooden liner shouldn't char too badly. The trick is to go slowly and carefully. This works best with pitch type adhesives, shellac, gum obtained from trees, etc. if you're sure a shellac or organic heat activated resin was used, initially heat only where it can freely flow out. If it is heated where the expanding resin is trapped it can distort or split the metal mounts or, in an extreme case, explode! (Had this happen with a piece of silver I was experimenting with many years ago! It sounded like a .45 going off! I was lucky, it blew out at eye level but pointing away from my face!) Epoxy can be urged to let go as well, but a slightly higher heat is necessary. Another alternative would be to dribble solvent down the metal. You have to have some idea of what the adhesive is for this so work properly. If you're OK with doing a complete rebuild of the scabbard you can soak the whole thing and remove the liner in pieces. Once the solvent vaporizes it can be reglued with white glue.

3rd March 2016, 09:12 AM	#3
Kubur Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Posts: 2,145	As always very usefull, thank you very much shakethethree. Subsidiary question, when you use Silvo or Mirror to clean and polish the silver. This product is quite aggressive and let some (acid) white marks. How do you remove these white marks? Thanks!!

3rd March 2016, 06:09 PM	#4
Jens Nordlunde Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Europe Posts: 2,718	The white traces/remains can be removed with a tooth bruch.

3rd March 2016, 06:18 PM	#5
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	Use a little denatured alcohol on the toothbrush if the polish residue is dry and caked into the details.

27th April 2016, 03:38 PM	#9
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,310	Looks so much better!