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Old 16th June 2015, 12:52 AM   #1
CharlesS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asomotif
Finally took some pictures with acceptable daylight of a peudeung from my own collection. Scabbard leather over wood.
Blade is laminated, What would you call this blade ?

Best regards,
Willem
Really attractive patter welding there Willem...consistent and good contrast. Is this the original etch or a later one?
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Old 16th June 2015, 06:40 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by CharlesS
Really attractive patter welding there Willem...consistent and good contrast. Is this the original etch or a later one?
Hello Charles,

I did not etch it myself.
The blade was pretty much in this condition when I bought it.

Best regards,
Willem
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Old 16th June 2015, 07:25 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by asomotif
Hello Charles,

I did not etch it myself.
The blade was pretty much in this condition when I bought it.

Best regards,
Willem
That's even better. VERY nice!
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Old 22nd May 2016, 01:22 AM   #4
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Default Pattern forged blades

Hi,

Quite new to this group, and not exactly a reply, but I would appreciate knowing the best method or process of testing a blade, to establish whether it is patterned or just plain. Thanks in advance.

Gordon
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Old 22nd May 2016, 11:20 AM   #5
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There is only one way: etch it. If there is a pattern, it is "pattern welded" ( or wootz), if not, - it is monosteel.
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Old 22nd May 2016, 10:12 PM   #6
scinde
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Default pattern forged blades

Hi Ariel,

Thanks for reply. I basic terms I was aware of the fact that the surface of the blade must be etched to reveal the grain structure however, the main thrust of my question was in relation to how the blade should be prepared for etching, and what chemicals or agents should be used to etch the metal.

Gordon
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Old 23rd May 2016, 09:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scinde
Hi Ariel,

Thanks for reply. I basic terms I was aware of the fact that the surface of the blade must be etched to reveal the grain structure however, the main thrust of my question was in relation to how the blade should be prepared for etching, and what chemicals or agents should be used to etch the metal.

Gordon
These are good questions, and a forum search will probably show at least several threads that explain the materials and the process. For someone like me, who has no advanced knowledge of chemistry, the following have worked:
- Clean the blade with soap and water and dry it out, then clean it again with alcohol to remove any residue of dirt, wax, oil or whatever may have been applied to it in the past;
- Dilute wine vinegar in warm water in 1:4 ratio of vinegar to water;
- Use the mild acid to dip the blade into and leave for half an hour, then check for a pattern, or, if the blade is too long and you do not have an appropriate size container, rub in the acid and see if a pattern starts to appear.

There are other acids, which would probably produce better results, but vinegar is easy to obtain and not really dangerous (no toxic fumes and if you get it on yourself, you won't be harmed), which is why I have opted for it.

Sincerely,
Teodor
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Old 24th May 2016, 03:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scinde
Hi,

Quite new to this group, and not exactly a reply, but I would appreciate knowing the best method or process of testing a blade, to establish whether it is patterned or just plain. Thanks in advance.

Gordon

Hi Gordon,

a cheap and simple way to test a blade is to hold it under hot running water (must be hot enough, to burn your hand). If it is mechanical damascus, one can recognize the structure clearly after a few seconds.

Roland
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Old 24th May 2016, 08:21 PM   #9
scinde
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roland_M
Hi Gordon,

a cheap and simple way to test a blade is to hold it under hot running water (must be hot enough, to burn your hand). If it is mechanical damascus, one can recognize the structure clearly after a few seconds.

Roland
Hi Roland,

Very interesting and helpful; it seems a combination of heating the blade with hot water and applying the vinegar solution will produce the desired result if there's anything to be seen.

Thanks for this additional information.

Regards,

Gordon
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