Preservation of Pendok, Mendak and Bone

A. G. Maisey · 2nd January 2015, 07:05 AM

Thanks Yuuzan, and a Happy 2015 to you also.

A soft old toothbrush seems to carry the oil better, and a hard new toothbrush can damage fine carving if it is used too vigorously.

Paint brushes are not stiff enough to provide any cleaning effect.

David · 3rd January 2015, 02:58 AM

Think of it this way...ivory is very similar to tooth material. You would use a paint brush to clean your teeth. It would be pretty ineffectual.

Jean · 3rd January 2015, 02:27 PM

Personally I implement the cleaning and oiling operations separately.
If I have to upgrade a dirty ivory hilt, or a bone/ horn hilt with a dull appearance or a pitted surface, I start by cleaning it with household alcohol applied with a stiff paint brush and wiping it immediately with a cloth for removing the dirt.
Then I apply the oil either with a stiff paint brush if the surface is smooth and the oil is very fluid, or a tooth brush if the hilt is carved or the oil is a bit viscous in order that the oil penetrates deeply into the carved cavities.
I am using either medicinal paraffin oil or pusaka oil (for preserving the blades) which is is scented paraffin oil. Some collectors use WD40 spray with good results and I also tested liquid wax but for hilts with a smooth surface only.
Regards

A. G. Maisey · 3rd January 2015, 08:34 PM

Jean, I'm surprised that you use alcohol on the ivory. Long ago and far away when I was just beginning with keris I didn't worry much about what I used to clean things, but I was fortunate to meet a fellow who was a collector of Japanese and Chinese ivory carvings, and it was this man who helped me quite a lot with ivory cleaning. He was of the opinion that alcohol had a drying effect on ivory, and in fact on most materials, and use of it could lead to cracking.

I don't know if this is true, because for more than 50 years I've never put anything near ivory that was not oil or water. Have you ever encountered any adverse effects with alcohol?

You mention a "stiff paint brush". What sort of paint brush is that?

I'd prefer to use a paint brush rather than a toothbrush, if I could find one that was stiff enough, but I have been unable to find a paint brush with stiff enough bristles.

The pusaka oil you use. Is this stuff you've made yourself, or sourced from Indonesia? All the Indonesian pusaka oil I've seen has used coconut oil as the base oil, which might be OK for ivory, I don't know, but I really detest the long term smell of coconut oil. You oil something up, put it away for a couple of years, and when you come back and look at it again the smell is disgusting.

Jean · 4th January 2015, 09:11 AM

Hello Alan,
I never faced any problem with cleaning ivory or bone/ antler hilts with alcohol because I imediately wipe it and nourish the hilt with either oil or wax.
Few months ago I bought a very old & worn marine ivory hilt with sound materials but very filthy and I could not clean it with alcohol so I did it with a tooth brush impregnated with Cif cream (used to clean sinks, etc), it worked very well and without damage to the ivory after rinsing it immediately and applying oïl (see result).
I use the commercial pusaka oil in 30 ml amber bootles with the red label (not with me here), I am not sure what is the base oil but I never encountered any case of foul smell with it so it seems stable. I bought some essential rose and jasmine oils and in future I will mix some drops of it with the medicinal paraffin oil which should give a even better result in the long term.
I use an a flat artist brush with short bristles (about 1 cm long), it is not as stiff as a tooth brush of course but sufficient for evenly applying a fluid oïl.
Regards

A. G. Maisey · 8th January 2015, 11:42 AM

Thanks Jean, and my apologies for my slow response.

An unexpected disturbance has been stealing my time.

4th January 2015, 09:11 AM	#5
Jean Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,740	Hello Alan, I never faced any problem with cleaning ivory or bone/ antler hilts with alcohol because I imediately wipe it and nourish the hilt with either oil or wax. Few months ago I bought a very old & worn marine ivory hilt with sound materials but very filthy and I could not clean it with alcohol so I did it with a tooth brush impregnated with Cif cream (used to clean sinks, etc), it worked very well and without damage to the ivory after rinsing it immediately and applying oïl (see result). I use the commercial pusaka oil in 30 ml amber bootles with the red label (not with me here), I am not sure what is the base oil but I never encountered any case of foul smell with it so it seems stable. I bought some essential rose and jasmine oils and in future I will mix some drops of it with the medicinal paraffin oil which should give a even better result in the long term. I use an a flat artist brush with short bristles (about 1 cm long), it is not as stiff as a tooth brush of course but sufficient for evenly applying a fluid oïl. Regards Attached Images Last edited by Jean; 4th January 2015 at 09:23 AM.

2nd January 2015, 07:05 AM	#1
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,048	Thanks Yuuzan, and a Happy 2015 to you also. A soft old toothbrush seems to carry the oil better, and a hard new toothbrush can damage fine carving if it is used too vigorously. Paint brushes are not stiff enough to provide any cleaning effect.

3rd January 2015, 02:58 AM	#2
David Keris forum moderator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Nova Scotia Posts: 7,229	Think of it this way...ivory is very similar to tooth material. You would use a paint brush to clean your teeth. It would be pretty ineffectual.

3rd January 2015, 02:27 PM	#3
Jean Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,740	Personally I implement the cleaning and oiling operations separately. If I have to upgrade a dirty ivory hilt, or a bone/ horn hilt with a dull appearance or a pitted surface, I start by cleaning it with household alcohol applied with a stiff paint brush and wiping it immediately with a cloth for removing the dirt. Then I apply the oil either with a stiff paint brush if the surface is smooth and the oil is very fluid, or a tooth brush if the hilt is carved or the oil is a bit viscous in order that the oil penetrates deeply into the carved cavities. I am using either medicinal paraffin oil or pusaka oil (for preserving the blades) which is is scented paraffin oil. Some collectors use WD40 spray with good results and I also tested liquid wax but for hilts with a smooth surface only. Regards

3rd January 2015, 08:34 PM	#4
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,048	Jean, I'm surprised that you use alcohol on the ivory. Long ago and far away when I was just beginning with keris I didn't worry much about what I used to clean things, but I was fortunate to meet a fellow who was a collector of Japanese and Chinese ivory carvings, and it was this man who helped me quite a lot with ivory cleaning. He was of the opinion that alcohol had a drying effect on ivory, and in fact on most materials, and use of it could lead to cracking. I don't know if this is true, because for more than 50 years I've never put anything near ivory that was not oil or water. Have you ever encountered any adverse effects with alcohol? You mention a "stiff paint brush". What sort of paint brush is that? I'd prefer to use a paint brush rather than a toothbrush, if I could find one that was stiff enough, but I have been unable to find a paint brush with stiff enough bristles. The pusaka oil you use. Is this stuff you've made yourself, or sourced from Indonesia? All the Indonesian pusaka oil I've seen has used coconut oil as the base oil, which might be OK for ivory, I don't know, but I really detest the long term smell of coconut oil. You oil something up, put it away for a couple of years, and when you come back and look at it again the smell is disgusting.

8th January 2015, 11:42 AM	#6
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,048	Thanks Jean, and my apologies for my slow response. An unexpected disturbance has been stealing my time.