magnificant jambiya - translation needed

archer · 29th May 2011, 11:26 PM

Hi, Have you decided to repair your fantastic jambiya ? I had a thought that I believe that some similarly broken keris are repaired by drilling out the tang from the blade base and inserting a new one this would allow for braze, solder or even cold epoxying. The hilt portion of the tang may be heated enough with a heavy soldering iron to the remaining tang, or it may be anchored by usually white crystalized cuttlers' glue. The glue seems readily melted by warm water. Something like these steps would restore its' appearance. Steve

rickystl · 30th May 2011, 12:30 AM

That is a beautiful blade !!! Worth the fix.

Battara · 30th May 2011, 12:32 AM

Certainly if you try to braze steel to steel or braze anything else to the blade, the heat will change the blade and possibly not just damage the steel but in this case damage the softer gold as well. Cold epoxy might be the only method (say like JB Weld for example).

archer · 30th May 2011, 07:45 AM

Hi Jose, I should have mentioned the use of heat sinks. Large metal against the blade, also have used wet rags near the site to quench extra heat. JB weld is an excellent epoxy for the job. Wouldn't tinned solder melt at much lower temps than gold? Steve

TimW · 31st May 2011, 09:59 AM

Hy all

I did not touch the knife yet: want to think it over before screwing things up. Brazing is not an option (temp is too high); soldering could work (180 °C with blade compeletly immersed in water); drilling and inserting a rod could work too. The tang is removed from the handle. A friend suggested very controlled / precise TIG welding (he knows a guy that could do it for me).

If i get it fixed, i'll let you know the result.

Thx for the interest.

David · 31st May 2011, 01:54 PM

If you decide to go with the cold method i have personally had very good results with JB Weld.
I do really wonder how the tang of such a fine blade got broken in the first place. This isn't exactly the kind of blade you'd expect to see someone using in combat.

A. G. Maisey · 31st May 2011, 02:42 PM

This is the first time I have seen this thread.

Please tell me the thickness of the thickest part of the blade where it is broken, and the thickness of the blade where it is broken, and the width of the undecorated section of the blade where it is broken.

What I would like to know is the actual accurate dimensions of the part of the blade that you have available to fix a substitute tang to.

29th May 2011, 11:26 PM	#1
archer Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 373	jambiya Repair Hi, Have you decided to repair your fantastic jambiya ? I had a thought that I believe that some similarly broken keris are repaired by drilling out the tang from the blade base and inserting a new one this would allow for braze, solder or even cold epoxying. The hilt portion of the tang may be heated enough with a heavy soldering iron to the remaining tang, or it may be anchored by usually white crystalized cuttlers' glue. The glue seems readily melted by warm water. Something like these steps would restore its' appearance. Steve

30th May 2011, 07:45 AM	#4
archer Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 373	Heat Sinks Hi Jose, I should have mentioned the use of heat sinks. Large metal against the blade, also have used wet rags near the site to quench extra heat. JB weld is an excellent epoxy for the job. Wouldn't tinned solder melt at much lower temps than gold? Steve

30th May 2011, 12:30 AM	#2
rickystl Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St. Louis, MO area. Posts: 1,633	That is a beautiful blade !!! Worth the fix.

30th May 2011, 12:32 AM	#3
Battara EAAF Staff Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 7,325	Certainly if you try to braze steel to steel or braze anything else to the blade, the heat will change the blade and possibly not just damage the steel but in this case damage the softer gold as well. Cold epoxy might be the only method (say like JB Weld for example).

31st May 2011, 09:59 AM	#5
TimW Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 54	Hy all I did not touch the knife yet: want to think it over before screwing things up. Brazing is not an option (temp is too high); soldering could work (180 °C with blade compeletly immersed in water); drilling and inserting a rod could work too. The tang is removed from the handle. A friend suggested very controlled / precise TIG welding (he knows a guy that could do it for me). If i get it fixed, i'll let you know the result. Thx for the interest.

31st May 2011, 01:54 PM	#6
David Keris forum moderator Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Nova Scotia Posts: 7,237	If you decide to go with the cold method i have personally had very good results with JB Weld. I do really wonder how the tang of such a fine blade got broken in the first place. This isn't exactly the kind of blade you'd expect to see someone using in combat.

31st May 2011, 02:42 PM	#7
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,056	This is the first time I have seen this thread. Please tell me the thickness of the thickest part of the blade where it is broken, and the thickness of the blade where it is broken, and the width of the undecorated section of the blade where it is broken. What I would like to know is the actual accurate dimensions of the part of the blade that you have available to fix a substitute tang to.