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#1 |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,339
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I'm no 'expert'
![]() The 'leaf' marks are unusual and I wonder if they are intentional ; they certainly look so . A light citrus etch might tell more . A Mindanao sword from the look of the scabbard . |
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#2 |
(deceased)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: East Coast USA
Posts: 3,191
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Hi Guys
I did a citrus etch and this is how it turned out. You can really get a good look at the pattern in the blade now. Lew |
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#3 |
EAAF Staff
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 7,280
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Very interesting pattern. More etching might bring more out. I remember this Maguindanao piece at the show when you showed it to me.
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#4 |
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Kernersville, NC, USA
Posts: 793
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Gorgeous!
Steve |
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#5 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 327
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Nice sword Lew, What are your thoughts? Do you think it has its original ganga. A work in progress, that never was completed, to the original owners hopes? From the pics, it looks like a quality 19thC blade, with early 20thC hilt, & the stirups were temps?
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#6 |
(deceased)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: East Coast USA
Posts: 3,191
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Hi Bill
The ganga are meant to be that way I have seen this type without file work before on a few examples mostly Maguindanao kris. The baca baca seem to have been either added or repeared at a later date do to the presents of some sloppy solder work. Everything else seems original to the kris which I place between 1900-1920s. The scabbard might be a later addition also? Lew |
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#7 |
Vikingsword Staff
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,339
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Lew , other than the leaf shaped markings are there any indications that this blade is layer forged ?
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#8 |
Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 327
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Looks like the asang-asang that goes over the elephant, are 2 seperate peices of metal. If you think the solder was done early 20thC, my vote would be to leave it alone. To alter it you need to rub some flux on it, heat it with a soldering iron, not on the solder but ajoining metal, & then wipe with a stiff piece of cloth, canvas would be perfect. To totally remove it, no flux needed, just heat up & use an old paint brush to flick it off when you see it starts to melt, keep heating & flicking untill its gone. A large soldering iron should work, if not you can use a small torch, but I'd advise against it unless you're familar with using one, you might mark up the piece & the solder will splatter.
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