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#1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: comfortably at home, USA
Posts: 432
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Don't know how deep the cartouches are, but with Japanese swords it's common to sprinkle with talc or baby powder, lightly brush or shake it off to enhance the signature. Might (?) work for your blades???
Also maybe a pencil or charcoal rubbing on paper might be more readable than the original on the blade. Just a thought. Rich S Last edited by Rich; 5th March 2011 at 12:18 PM. |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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Hi Rich,
Thanks for coming in on this. These cartouches are applied gold in the Koftgari manner and worn in places but the incised lines are still present so I am remaining hopeful that there is a method/s that highlights any residue in the grooves to offer a better outline of the writings not seen to the naked eye. I am going to the stamp shop for a black light to see if this suggested methods works too ![]() Gav |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Witness Protection Program
Posts: 1,730
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Hi gav,
Photoshop can do wonders. Sometimes i would see stuff after taking pics on higher megapixels, then enhancing the picture further... |
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#4 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,818
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Gav |
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#5 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dortmund, Germany
Posts: 102
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It is a bit tedious but examining the surface with a simple microscope might help on the unreadable sections. I'm sure if you ask politely, someone from the university of Queensland will help you with access to the right equipment. I would start asking a mineralogy or materials science department.
Best Regards, Thilo |
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2007
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I recently sold an item to a chap in the Physics dept at UQ...I hope he is receptive to the idea and can offer direction. I'll let you know if I have success with this method. Gav |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,247
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Hi Gav,
Talc isn't a bad idea. Check out the techniques for seeing the images on old gravestones and petroglyphs. Basically, use a non-staining fine powder that has a color in contrast to the surface, to fill in the grooves and make them more evident. Alternatively, light the piece from a low angle, along the blade (like the setting sun), so that the shadows from any grooves or ridges stand out. So far as the microscope goes, you want a dissecting microscope, not a compound microscope. If you can't get anything from the physicist, you can often buy one surplus for well under a thousand dollars. Or if that's too much, there are number of simple magnifiers (for jewelers, fishing fly makers and other hobbyists) which would work too. Best, F |
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