17thC relic Rapier saved?

fernando · 13th June 2010, 02:18 PM

Hi Gene

Quote:

Originally Posted by Atlantia

... A father 32 years ago? Is he sleeping through the night yet?

-After 6 months the sleep depravation seems endless.

It is a she; a pets Vet.
Sleeping through? always

. I can count with my (five) fingers the nights Katia made us loose.
She was (is) a gift of the Gods

.
'Nando

Atlantia · 13th June 2010, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fernando

Hi Gene

It is a she; a pets Vet.
Sleeping through? always

. I can count with my (five) fingers the nights Katia made us loose.
She was (is) a gift of the Gods

.
'Nando

LOL, she certainly was a little angel then!
Alex is a total blessing, just hard on my sleep.

Philip · 14th June 2010, 06:39 AM

Of course, my prior comments on pommel removal were penned with peened-over tangs in mind. If the hilt is held by threaded nuts, then there's no problem with taking off and replacing the components, providing the nuts can be unscrewed without encountering the vexing problem of threads frozen by deep-seated corrosion. You will probably have to improvise your own wrench or spanner if the nut isn't of a size or shape that can be gripped with commonly-available tools. Some pommel nuts are recessed, and are turned via split slots, visible on either side of the threaded bolt which is the end of the tang. A large, wide screwdriver thick enough to fit the slots will do the trick, once the center portion is filed out to clear the tang. Similar split nuts are sometimes encountered on the wooden slab grips of bayonets, cutlasses, and fascine knives (the French were fond of this type of attachment) so you may need to modify a variety of screwdriver sizes to fit these. I like the old-fashioned English-style joiners' or cabinetmakers' screwdrivers, their blades are beefy and well-tempered, and the bulbous wood handles are very ergonomic. Besides, the flattened area at the base of the shank is ideal for attaching a wrench to, so you can generate some awesome torque to back out a stubborn nut or screw.

14th June 2010, 06:39 AM	#3
Philip Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: California Posts: 1,036	Threaded pommel nuts Of course, my prior comments on pommel removal were penned with peened-over tangs in mind. If the hilt is held by threaded nuts, then there's no problem with taking off and replacing the components, providing the nuts can be unscrewed without encountering the vexing problem of threads frozen by deep-seated corrosion. You will probably have to improvise your own wrench or spanner if the nut isn't of a size or shape that can be gripped with commonly-available tools. Some pommel nuts are recessed, and are turned via split slots, visible on either side of the threaded bolt which is the end of the tang. A large, wide screwdriver thick enough to fit the slots will do the trick, once the center portion is filed out to clear the tang. Similar split nuts are sometimes encountered on the wooden slab grips of bayonets, cutlasses, and fascine knives (the French were fond of this type of attachment) so you may need to modify a variety of screwdriver sizes to fit these. I like the old-fashioned English-style joiners' or cabinetmakers' screwdrivers, their blades are beefy and well-tempered, and the bulbous wood handles are very ergonomic. Besides, the flattened area at the base of the shank is ideal for attaching a wrench to, so you can generate some awesome torque to back out a stubborn nut or screw.