Preserving wooden kris hilt

[Paul Duffy]

As I mentioned the British Museum scientist found that commercial waxes based on the usual natural waxes contained acids which,in time could spoil original finishes on collections of furniture.
When thinly applied Ren Wax is glass clear with no discoloration either of the wax or the underlying surface.I gather that on furniture and wood carvings the wax echances grain patterns.It protects existing finishes such as french polish and it can be applied to sanded unfinished hardwoods.
Should surface repair or restoration be needed,Ren Wax can be removed by rubbing with white spirit.
Alan,I was interested to read that you use Antiquax.I used this till very recently when the tin was empty,and I couldn't find some more.But I used this on wood,not on metal.I agree that wood and metal have to age,I don't want to freeze a finish.I am concerned to protect wood and metal finishes from mould and rust.
I have found that Ren Wax is very effective in protecting gun stocks from mould in damp conditions,and european sword blades from rust.
I'm a small private collector,not a public museum.I do like to get the pieces of my collection out and enjoy having them.This includes friends handling them.
I recently cleaned some rust spots from a Balinese blade with another product from the same source as Ren Wax.I have now applied a thin layer of wax and will be interested to see how effective the cleaning job has been.
The cleaner is Pre-Lim Surface Cleaner,which is used in professional restoration of arms & armour,sculpture,brass & copper exhibition cookware ceramics and other surfaces.
Formulation is based on blended Neuburg silica chalks in a water/white spirit emulsion.After cleaning an application of wax is recommended.
I would not have used Ren Wax,or Bees Wax,or Antiquax on finely carved keris hilts,or to fill in a split.Most of these applications are to heavy,and difficult to remove ,as Jean has mentioned.
If I have a split hilt or sheath I prefer to leave to piece as it is,apart from cleaning it.
Also with a finely carved piece ,such as th Palembang hilt illustrated by Jonng,I would not want to clog up the carving with wax.I prefer to keep the piece clean,with a light wipe with Ren Wax,or an oil.
I don't keep my collection in the open,or hung on the wall.The dust and salt spray is too strong.But in wet periods,I still have to check for mould or rust.I sometimes think that I would enjoy seeing my keris as I walked into a room,however I know they are there,in drawers,and I enjoy getting some out from time to time.
I agree with Alan about using baby oil for ivory,works well if the ivory is dry.

[Rick]

I use the stuff to protect blades mostly .
Never keris blades, just smooth finished steel .

It can be a bit of a bother to remove; white mineral spirits, as Paul said, will remove it with a bit of work .


There are some decent products in their line .


>Lives next to a salt marsh<

>Rust never sleeps<

[A. G. Maisey]

Yes Paul, I only use the Antiquax on wood.

If I wished to use wax on a blade I would use Renaissance wax, but I don't use wax on blades.

Its not suitable for keris blades because of the rough surface, and the oil and sleeve method I use for keris has proven to be effective for polished blades as well, so I've never bothered with Renaissance wax.

I note all you say about Renaissance, and there are a lot of people who use it and swear by it, however, I've always found my methods totally satisfactory, so I guess I'll just keep on using them.

I would imagine for armour, or for firearms, Renaissance would be excellent, but thankfully I do not have to concern myself with those types of items.

[Paul Duffy]

Alan,thank and yes I'll continue with the oil & sleeve system for blades.
I will also try to find some Antiquax.

[A. G. Maisey]

Paul, this link may be of interest:-

http://www.antiquax.info/home/distri...on=Australasia