Shellac for warangka

Anthony G. · 22nd March 2022, 09:12 AM

Hi all, newbie when comes to this part.

I would like to apply thin layer of shellac to my old and modern made warangka to preserve and protect the wood.

And I would like to hear your view and advices please. Thank you.

1) Any recommended brand
2) Can i use shellac over painted warangka?
3) If shellac is not recommended, how about tung oil?

A. G. Maisey · 22nd March 2022, 11:57 AM

Anthony, the finish on Javanese wrongkos is traditionally a light french polish. Not a piano finish, Javanese people prefer to be able to read the grain of the wood, so the polish they use is a very light one, that is repolished when it begins to wear.

French polishing is a skill that requires time to learn.

Balinese wrongkos frequently have a burnished finish, which does not use any coating at all.

My approach for the new ones would be to leave the wrongkos as you have received them from the maker.

For the older wrongkos I would use a good quality furniture oil, and when thoroughly dry, I would follow that with good quality wax furniture polish.

If you have any wrongkos that are in a truly poor condition, you might consider a complete re-polish, running through several grades of garnet paper, then steel wool, raise the grain of the wood by steaming and remove the whiskering with 0000 steel wool. Then use Scandinavian oil applied with a cotton wool filled rubber, rub back between coats, probably about 6 coats should be sufficient.

Shellac applied with a brush would be a very poor finish.

Tung oil is not an option.

We do not paint over sunggingan work with any other finish. If the work required sealing, the man who did the sunggingan work would have done it.

milandro · 22nd March 2022, 02:25 PM

I have two sarongs which appear to have been treated with some shellac although was not brought to a true “ piano finish” to begin with.

One had some signs of water having been splashed on it, I got some denatured alcohol and have been just rubbing it.

The remaining shellac on the surface got , I think, slightly soluble again and covered the superficial water spots and are now no longer visible. I am happy the way it looks,

I have to say that although I probably understand the desire of having a shiny surface bringing it to a piano polish would probably not be practical

Anthony G. · 22nd March 2022, 04:46 PM

Thanks all for sharing.

I started to think now that my violin probably is also cover with shellac. At least the bow was as what I was told.

Didn't realized things associated with finishing and chemical has so much studies in it.

Anyway, I dislike shiny stuff and usually prefer matt kind of finish. I will follow Alan advice then.

Sajen · 22nd March 2022, 08:00 PM

This both wrongkos are restored and polished with shellac.

milandro · 22nd March 2022, 08:33 PM

very nice @Sajen , how did you proceed with the applying of the shellac?

Did you sandpapper or use fine steelwool beforehand and then after applying every layer?

Something like this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1OCibJNAcg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGTZt_6T9vw

A. G. Maisey · 22nd March 2022, 08:45 PM

Just to clarify.

"Shellac" is made from the excretion of the lac bug.

In the trade terms as they apply in Australia, if you apply a shellac finish to timber you are using this resin dissolved in methylated spirits and applied with a brush. This finish is applied to internal timber fittings and cheap furniture --- or at least it used to be, there are now cheaper & better synthetic finishes that can be used.

"French Polish" is also made from the excretion of the lac bug, it is also dissolved in metho, the difference is that french polish is applied with a rubber made from fine cotton and filled with cotton wool.

"French Polish" is a technique, it is not a material. There are two major schools of French Polish technique:- French and British, the major difference is in the way abrasives are used during application.

The polish is applied in an over lapping "figure of eight" pattern. The complete process requires a number of steps and takes time and hands on tuition to learn. French polish is --- or maybe "was" is more accurate --- used on fine cabinet work and musical instruments. Basically, you apply many very thin coats of the polish over a period of time.

A good quality wrongko in Solo would have perhaps 5 or 6 coats of polish.

A good quality french polish taken to "piano finish" would use a minimum of thirty coats of polish.

French Polish is the absolute best way in which to bring a fine wood grain to the peak of display.

It used to be a distinct trade with a minimum three year apprenticeship.

The "cloudy" areas that can appear in a french polish finish when it is damaged by moisture can be removed with heat, but again, this is a specific technique that needs to be taught.

22nd March 2022, 09:12 AM	#1
Anthony G. Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Posts: 457	Shellac for warangka Hi all, newbie when comes to this part. I would like to apply thin layer of shellac to my old and modern made warangka to preserve and protect the wood. And I would like to hear your view and advices please. Thank you. 1) Any recommended brand 2) Can i use shellac over painted warangka? 3) If shellac is not recommended, how about tung oil? Last edited by Anthony G.; 22nd March 2022 at 10:32 AM.

22nd March 2022, 08:00 PM	#5
Sajen Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Germany, Dortmund Posts: 8,569	This both wrongkos are restored and polished with shellac. Attached Images

22nd March 2022, 11:57 AM	#2
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 6,736	Anthony, the finish on Javanese wrongkos is traditionally a light french polish. Not a piano finish, Javanese people prefer to be able to read the grain of the wood, so the polish they use is a very light one, that is repolished when it begins to wear. French polishing is a skill that requires time to learn. Balinese wrongkos frequently have a burnished finish, which does not use any coating at all. My approach for the new ones would be to leave the wrongkos as you have received them from the maker. For the older wrongkos I would use a good quality furniture oil, and when thoroughly dry, I would follow that with good quality wax furniture polish. If you have any wrongkos that are in a truly poor condition, you might consider a complete re-polish, running through several grades of garnet paper, then steel wool, raise the grain of the wood by steaming and remove the whiskering with 0000 steel wool. Then use Scandinavian oil applied with a cotton wool filled rubber, rub back between coats, probably about 6 coats should be sufficient. Shellac applied with a brush would be a very poor finish. Tung oil is not an option. We do not paint over sunggingan work with any other finish. If the work required sealing, the man who did the sunggingan work would have done it.

22nd March 2022, 02:25 PM	#3
milandro Member Join Date: Jan 2022 Location: Netherlands Posts: 422	I have two sarongs which appear to have been treated with some shellac although was not brought to a true “ piano finish” to begin with. One had some signs of water having been splashed on it, I got some denatured alcohol and have been just rubbing it. The remaining shellac on the surface got , I think, slightly soluble again and covered the superficial water spots and are now no longer visible. I am happy the way it looks, I have to say that although I probably understand the desire of having a shiny surface bringing it to a piano polish would probably not be practical

22nd March 2022, 04:46 PM	#4
Anthony G. Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Posts: 457	Thanks all for sharing. I started to think now that my violin probably is also cover with shellac. At least the bow was as what I was told. Didn't realized things associated with finishing and chemical has so much studies in it. Anyway, I dislike shiny stuff and usually prefer matt kind of finish. I will follow Alan advice then.

22nd March 2022, 08:33 PM	#6
milandro Member Join Date: Jan 2022 Location: Netherlands Posts: 422	very nice @Sajen , how did you proceed with the applying of the shellac? Did you sandpapper or use fine steelwool beforehand and then after applying every layer? Something like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1OCibJNAcg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGTZt_6T9vw

22nd March 2022, 08:45 PM	#7
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 6,736	Just to clarify. "Shellac" is made from the excretion of the lac bug. In the trade terms as they apply in Australia, if you apply a shellac finish to timber you are using this resin dissolved in methylated spirits and applied with a brush. This finish is applied to internal timber fittings and cheap furniture --- or at least it used to be, there are now cheaper & better synthetic finishes that can be used. "French Polish" is also made from the excretion of the lac bug, it is also dissolved in metho, the difference is that french polish is applied with a rubber made from fine cotton and filled with cotton wool. "French Polish" is a technique, it is not a material. There are two major schools of French Polish technique:- French and British, the major difference is in the way abrasives are used during application. The polish is applied in an over lapping "figure of eight" pattern. The complete process requires a number of steps and takes time and hands on tuition to learn. French polish is --- or maybe "was" is more accurate --- used on fine cabinet work and musical instruments. Basically, you apply many very thin coats of the polish over a period of time. A good quality wrongko in Solo would have perhaps 5 or 6 coats of polish. A good quality french polish taken to "piano finish" would use a minimum of thirty coats of polish. French Polish is the absolute best way in which to bring a fine wood grain to the peak of display. It used to be a distinct trade with a minimum three year apprenticeship. The "cloudy" areas that can appear in a french polish finish when it is damaged by moisture can be removed with heat, but again, this is a specific technique that needs to be taught.