Removing v tight lock plate screw

Ken Maddock · 30th July 2015, 01:54 PM

Hi all
I do a good bit of home repairs on firearms, in ireland a few flintlock and percussion guns come up at auction and go for big money, what tend to sell for cheap are weapons needing a bit of work which is totally understandable.
I used to steer away from those guns but a while back I got a lovely Brown Bess in perfect condition but the hammer was shorn off and I took it on as a project.
The screws holding on the side plate were completely seized
Below is method used to remove screws
Gun in question is a 1830 percussion pistol, lot of issues but got it at a good price and it is nice to have a project
Step one is grind screw driver till a perfect fit in the slot
Then put into lathe and push both parts of lathe together to ensure the driver head can not slip out of the slot in the screw
Very gently rock the chuck and screw will come out, I find actually tightening the screw initially gives better results
As screw is being un screwed move part of lathe back to ease pressure,
Result as I hope you can see is screw out
Always soak the part in diesel before to get some penetration of the metal to ease the removal

Has worked for me loads of times, if no lathe a pillar drill can be used to same effect.

Hope pictures below explain process.
I have loads to do on the gun but will document and update as things progress
Regards
Ken
The picture of me with punch is final removal of the side plate so is out of sequence

Shakethetrees · 30th July 2015, 02:26 PM

Great tip!

I've used this method many times myself, but with a drill press. The most important part to remember is that the screwdriver has to be a perfect fit to prevent slipping, sometime even to the point of reproducing imperfections /distortions. Anything that will give the best purchase. And, lots of penetrating oil, preferably soaking overnight.

JamesKelly · 1st August 2015, 03:05 AM

Best store-bought penetrating oil in the USA is Kroil

Have heard that a better product can be made by mixing automatic transmission fluid (ATF) with acetone.

As I do not care to breate acetone I use just plain ATF & let it soak a few days.

Admire how you do it. Think it a skill beyond me

Shakethetrees · 6th August 2015, 05:21 AM

Another trick that can make a difference is to get a piece of steel or iron roughly the diameter of the screw head you want to remove, long enough to hold with pliers of vise grips. Heat it red hot or hotter if you have a torch, and hold it to the head. This causes the head and shank of the screw to expand slightly. Soak in penetrating oil first and the combination of this gentle heating and oil can shock the threads loose.

Be careful of any wood or delicate metal bits that the heat can damage. I've used this on old military guns with a pretty good success rate.

30th July 2015, 01:54 PM	#1
Ken Maddock Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Ireland Posts: 104	Removing v tight lock plate screw Hi all I do a good bit of home repairs on firearms, in ireland a few flintlock and percussion guns come up at auction and go for big money, what tend to sell for cheap are weapons needing a bit of work which is totally understandable. I used to steer away from those guns but a while back I got a lovely Brown Bess in perfect condition but the hammer was shorn off and I took it on as a project. The screws holding on the side plate were completely seized Below is method used to remove screws Gun in question is a 1830 percussion pistol, lot of issues but got it at a good price and it is nice to have a project Step one is grind screw driver till a perfect fit in the slot Then put into lathe and push both parts of lathe together to ensure the driver head can not slip out of the slot in the screw Very gently rock the chuck and screw will come out, I find actually tightening the screw initially gives better results As screw is being un screwed move part of lathe back to ease pressure, Result as I hope you can see is screw out Always soak the part in diesel before to get some penetration of the metal to ease the removal Has worked for me loads of times, if no lathe a pillar drill can be used to same effect. Hope pictures below explain process. I have loads to do on the gun but will document and update as things progress Regards Ken The picture of me with punch is final removal of the side plate so is out of sequence Attached Images

30th July 2015, 02:26 PM	#2
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	Great tip! I've used this method many times myself, but with a drill press. The most important part to remember is that the screwdriver has to be a perfect fit to prevent slipping, sometime even to the point of reproducing imperfections /distortions. Anything that will give the best purchase. And, lots of penetrating oil, preferably soaking overnight.

1st August 2015, 03:05 AM	#3
JamesKelly Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Michigan, U.S.A. Posts: 108	Best store-bought penetrating oil in the USA is Kroil Have heard that a better product can be made by mixing automatic transmission fluid (ATF) with acetone. As I do not care to breate acetone I use just plain ATF & let it soak a few days. Admire how you do it. Think it a skill beyond me

6th August 2015, 05:21 AM	#4
Shakethetrees Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Louisiana Posts: 363	Another trick that can make a difference is to get a piece of steel or iron roughly the diameter of the screw head you want to remove, long enough to hold with pliers of vise grips. Heat it red hot or hotter if you have a torch, and hold it to the head. This causes the head and shank of the screw to expand slightly. Soak in penetrating oil first and the combination of this gentle heating and oil can shock the threads loose. Be careful of any wood or delicate metal bits that the heat can damage. I've used this on old military guns with a pretty good success rate.