A cup hilt sword ... atypical, for your comments.

[Jim McDougall]

Originally Posted by fernando

Also over here, Jim. Those that survived until then, were the resource of the population when involved in the various (Portuguese) civil war conflicts.

We crossed posts, that makes sense as often, especially in rural areas such instances of civil disturbance, the use of obsolete (theoretically) and older arms are used in the ersatz arming of individuals. Actually in the colonies of the 'New World', contrary to what many perceive, these were not technically 'military' movements, but private individuals hoping to better their lives. They were expected to arm themselves of course, and carried everything from long outdated armor and arms which were acquired in long ago battles and other heirlooms from various sources.
Most resources on the colonial arms make specific note of the curious array of these old weapons ( a'la Don Quixote ) which prevailed.

[fernando]

Originally Posted by Jim McDougall

... that makes sense as often, especially in rural areas such instances of civil disturbance, the use of obsolete (theoretically) and older arms are used in the ersatz arming of individuals. .

In this chapter, swords tend to beat guns.
While fire weapons may become impraticable (unshootable) with time, bladed weapons are ageless, as they can always do the job.
But i am digressing .


.

[ariel]

Cannot remember where I read it, but one explanation of the wavy contour of the blade allegedly made the blade of the opponent waver and lose direction and speed.

[fernando]

Originally Posted by ariel

Cannot remember where I read it, but one explanation of the wavy contour of the blade allegedly made the blade of the opponent waver and lose direction and speed.

A serious perspective; certainly plausible ...

[ariel]

Fernando,
Have you tried WD-40 to remove the grip?

[fernando]

Originally Posted by ariel

Fernando,
Have you tried WD-40 to remove the grip?

I thought of doing that, Ariel but, i left it for a possible new round.
The stuck up is not between two metals but between the steel tang and the wooden grip core; the tang must have 'swollen' with the rusting process.
I wanted to avoid to mess up the area with the penetrating oil; but i will probably give it a try. But above all, i fear for the damage; these things are pretty old and, if we damaged them, they are not the same again.

[kronckew]

WD40 and wood are not a good mix. It dries and leaves a gunky residue when over-applied. There are better oils available from gunsmiths.

I've heard an old 'fix' for a loose grip on a tang with a slightly oversized central grip hole was to paint the tang with a salt and vinegar paste to encourage rust, which increases the size of the tang as rust takes up more space than the steel it used to be.

That is why you can't use water with a high salt content to make reinforced concrete. It rusts the rebar, expands them and the concrete cracks from the outwards force which is quite strong. This lets in more water & the deterioration accelerates.

If it's used on an old somewhat fragile and dry shrunken wood grip, the expansion could crack the wood. medical grade mineral oil/Ballistol would be better, to rehydrate the dry shrunken wood and lube the internal rust that is preventing the disassembly. It's also non-poisonous and food safe unlike WD40. It will discolour light wood tho and you can't varnish over it. It never dries or hardens. Ballistol has a nice aroma, if you like Ouzo liquor (Greek) you might like it's anise aroma. I do.