Keris with elephant-headed blade.

kai · 8th March 2020, 09:58 PM

Hello Severin,

Congrats, another great score! Let me know, yadda, yadda...

The hilt is a very nice and example. Make sure that the broken part is wrapped separately during shipping! This is certainly worth specialized repair/restoration efforts.

Keris Jawa rather than Bali? What is the blade length?

Regards,
Kai

Athanase · 8th March 2020, 11:19 PM

I only have the total length: 58cm (so I deduct approximately 47cm for the blade)
The handle was reported as "broken" in the notice but during the sale, the auctioneer clarified that the handle was not broken but split. Apparently the crack is open on one side but still welded on the other, as when the wood splits.
I think we can fill the crack, but I don't believe that it's possible to close it by applying pressure.

A. G. Maisey · 8th March 2020, 11:31 PM

This is a Balinese keris, the hilt & fittings do not belong with the blade. By "Balinese", I mean Balinese culture, it could have as easily been made in Lombok as in Bali itself.

In respect of the hilt, my personal preference would be to leave exactly as it is, no restoration attempts, but demount from the blade and keep separate in a situation that would be kind to ivory, ideally this would be controlled humidity & temperature, but for most of us this is not possible. Certainly in a situation where it is not exposed to sunlight or artificial lighting and is protected from dust. A small glass of water in the same space would give a measure of added protection.

Athanase · 8th March 2020, 11:39 PM

Thank you for all your opinions.
It is true that I hadn't thought to look at the length of the blade (47cm approximately) and it should have already directed me to a blade of Balinese origin.
For the handle I will actually pay attention to the protected from the sun and other source of light producing heat.

apolaki · 9th March 2020, 02:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A. G. Maisey

This is a Balinese keris, the hilt & fittings do not belong with the blade. By "Balinese", I mean Balinese culture, it could have as easily been made in Lombok as in Bali itself.

In respect of the hilt, my personal preference would be to leave exactly as it is, no restoration attempts, but demount from the blade and keep separate in a situation that would be kind to ivory, ideally this would be controlled humidity & temperature, but for most of us this is not possible. Certainly in a situation where it is not exposed to sunlight or artificial lighting and is protected from dust. A small glass of water in the same space would give a measure of added protection.

Wow, so that is the proper care of this material. If it is left mounted on metal pesi, will it crack? Is it the same if it were mounted on an all wood stand? Also, what does the water do? Thanks!

A. G. Maisey · 9th March 2020, 07:28 AM

The water supposedly keeps humidity in the air.

Museums keep ivory in humidity & temperature controlled conditions. I cannot afford this, but I do have a lot of ivory, not only hilts, but also ivory carvings. I remember that 40+ years ago, before having and selling ivory got you branded as one of Satan's representatives on Earth, and in any case, just plain evil, dealers in ivory always had a container of water in the case with the ivory. Even in the 1950's museums had containers of water in the cases containing ivory. I don't know if it works, but it certainly doesn't do any harm.

If a hilt, ivory or otherwise has been on a keris for a long time, and the pesi begins to rust, the rust will expand and crack the hilt. A wooden display stand with a wooden support peg should be perfectly safe.

Jean · 9th March 2020, 10:21 AM

According to the late Martin Kerner, the hilt seems to depict Bima (see the hair bun) and I would agree with Marco about the East Java origin.
I hope that you can remove the hilt without breaking it further, good luck! Personally I would try to re-glue it with Superglue if you can close the gap on top of the crack by applying pressure.
Regards

Paul B. · 9th March 2020, 06:56 PM

A similar Bima handle with Balinese blade (?) and unknown dress.
Pics from Czerny auction.

Sajen · 14th November 2025, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A. G. Maisey

In respect of the hilt, my personal preference would be to leave exactly as it is, no restoration attempts, but demount from the blade and keep separate in a situation that would be kind to ivory, ideally this would be controlled humidity & temperature, but for most of us this is not possible. Certainly in a situation where it is not exposed to sunlight or artificial lighting and is protected from dust. A small glass of water in the same space would give a measure of added protection.

I would bathe the ivory hilt for one week in linseed oil, the crack may get closed.

A. G. Maisey · 14th November 2025, 10:53 PM

This advice is not from me, it was given me many years ago by a recognised authority in museum restoration & conservation, I'm only passing it on.

"Do not use linseed oil on ivory, ivory is a very dense material, linseed oil will not penetrate ivory, but it can cause discoloration & other damage.
The oils to use on ivory are high quality mineral oils, oils like medicinal paraffin."

Linseed oil used correctly can be beneficial for wood, but must not be used on ivory.

In fact, my personal experience is that I have never had much luck with closing up a crack in ivory.

In Indonesia there is a saying:-

"Tiada gading tanpa retak" = "There is no ivory without a crack"

This is understood as:- "Nothing is perfect."

Athanase · 14th November 2025, 11:23 PM

Since I received it, the ivory has given way.

In fact, the handle had already been completely broken in two (or even three pieces), then glued back together. And it might not have been the first time it had been glued in that spot, because on the side I can see an older repair with a small ivory nail to help hold the two glued parts together.
On one side there's also a missing piece that's been filled with a piece recarved from bone.
Now that I've removed the two parts of the handle, I'm thinking of trying to remove the old glue with acetone and then attempting a clean re-glue using the glue we use for fossils at my work (acrylic glue: Paraloid B72).

A. G. Maisey · 15th November 2025, 12:36 AM

I thought that might have been the case when I followed the cracks.

I have repaired more than a few hilts in many different materials, my adhesive of choice is 5 minute Araldite. The joining surfaces must be absolutely clean & dry, I like to roughen the joining surfaces with cabinet paper or a sharp pointed tool before applying the adhesive & this adhesive can be tinted with artist's powder colour. Hold firmly in place by hand until the adhesive sets, before that adhesive hardens I go over the hilt using a 2x or 3x loupe & dentists picks and clean away any excess adhesive. Sharpened bambu sate sticks are also good for this purpose.

Re roughening surfaces, it is best to leave the one or two millimeters adjoining the visible edge of the crack without roughening in order to make it easier to get a tight fit of those visible edges.

Sajen · 16th November 2025, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Athanase

Since I received it, the ivory has given way.

In fact, the handle had already been completely broken in two (or even three pieces), then glued back together. And it might not have been the first time it had been glued in that spot, because on the side I can see an older repair with a small ivory nail to help hold the two glued parts together.
On one side there's also a missing piece that's been filled with a piece recarved from bone.
Now that I've removed the two parts of the handle, I'm thinking of trying to remove the old glue with acetone and then attempting a clean re-glue using the glue we use for fossils at my work (acrylic glue: Paraloid B72).

Please show us the result! Maybe also pics of the broken hilt.

Sajen · 15th November 2025, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A. G. Maisey

This advice is not from me, it was given me many years ago by a recognised authority in museum restoration & conservation, I'm only passing it on.

"Do not use linseed oil on ivory, ivory is a very dense material, linseed oil will not penetrate ivory, but it can cause discoloration & other damage.
The oils to use on ivory are high quality mineral oils, oils like medicinal paraffin."

Linseed oil used correctly can be beneficial for wood, but must not be used on ivory.

In fact, my personal experience is that I have never had much luck with closing up a crack in ivory.

In Indonesia there is a saying:-

"Tiada gading tanpa retak" = "There is no ivory without a crack"

This is understood as:- "Nothing is perfect."

Hello Alan,

This crack in a tumbok lada hilt from ivory I've closed with a one week bath in linseed oil. The crack was opened for ca. 3 mm, now my fingernails can't fit inside anymore.

Regards,
Detlef

A. G. Maisey · 15th November 2025, 10:39 PM

As I said Detlef, my comment was not my advice, it was advice given to me a long time ago by a lead conservator who had an extremely impressive resume. This man was heavily relied upon by a couple of major museums.

I have never tried linseed oil on ivory.

Looking at your hilt that has come together I might give it a try on something unimportant, I've got a lot of ivory, I can probably find something with a crack that I'd be prepared to try it on.

Tell me, was your linseed oil boiled oil or raw oil?

Did you demount the hilt before soaking?

If you demounted, did you clean out the tang hole & tang before remounting?

9th March 2020, 06:56 PM	#8
Paul B. Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Posts: 205	A similar Bima handle with Balinese blade (?) and unknown dress. Pics from Czerny auction. Attached Images

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8th March 2020, 09:58 PM	#1
kai Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 3,255	Hello Severin, Congrats, another great score! Let me know, yadda, yadda... The hilt is a very nice and example. Make sure that the broken part is wrapped separately during shipping! This is certainly worth specialized repair/restoration efforts. Keris Jawa rather than Bali? What is the blade length? Regards, Kai

8th March 2020, 11:19 PM	#2
Athanase Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Paris (France) Posts: 432	I only have the total length: 58cm (so I deduct approximately 47cm for the blade) The handle was reported as "broken" in the notice but during the sale, the auctioneer clarified that the handle was not broken but split. Apparently the crack is open on one side but still welded on the other, as when the wood splits. I think we can fill the crack, but I don't believe that it's possible to close it by applying pressure.

8th March 2020, 11:31 PM	#3
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,193	This is a Balinese keris, the hilt & fittings do not belong with the blade. By "Balinese", I mean Balinese culture, it could have as easily been made in Lombok as in Bali itself. In respect of the hilt, my personal preference would be to leave exactly as it is, no restoration attempts, but demount from the blade and keep separate in a situation that would be kind to ivory, ideally this would be controlled humidity & temperature, but for most of us this is not possible. Certainly in a situation where it is not exposed to sunlight or artificial lighting and is protected from dust. A small glass of water in the same space would give a measure of added protection.

8th March 2020, 11:39 PM	#4
Athanase Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Paris (France) Posts: 432	Thank you for all your opinions. It is true that I hadn't thought to look at the length of the blade (47cm approximately) and it should have already directed me to a blade of Balinese origin. For the handle I will actually pay attention to the protected from the sun and other source of light producing heat.

9th March 2020, 07:28 AM	#6
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,193	The water supposedly keeps humidity in the air. Museums keep ivory in humidity & temperature controlled conditions. I cannot afford this, but I do have a lot of ivory, not only hilts, but also ivory carvings. I remember that 40+ years ago, before having and selling ivory got you branded as one of Satan's representatives on Earth, and in any case, just plain evil, dealers in ivory always had a container of water in the case with the ivory. Even in the 1950's museums had containers of water in the cases containing ivory. I don't know if it works, but it certainly doesn't do any harm. If a hilt, ivory or otherwise has been on a keris for a long time, and the pesi begins to rust, the rust will expand and crack the hilt. A wooden display stand with a wooden support peg should be perfectly safe.

9th March 2020, 10:21 AM	#7
Jean Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 1,740	According to the late Martin Kerner, the hilt seems to depict Bima (see the hair bun) and I would agree with Marco about the East Java origin. I hope that you can remove the hilt without breaking it further, good luck! Personally I would try to re-glue it with Superglue if you can close the gap on top of the crack by applying pressure. Regards

14th November 2025, 10:53 PM	#10
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,193	This advice is not from me, it was given me many years ago by a recognised authority in museum restoration & conservation, I'm only passing it on. "Do not use linseed oil on ivory, ivory is a very dense material, linseed oil will not penetrate ivory, but it can cause discoloration & other damage. The oils to use on ivory are high quality mineral oils, oils like medicinal paraffin." Linseed oil used correctly can be beneficial for wood, but must not be used on ivory. In fact, my personal experience is that I have never had much luck with closing up a crack in ivory. In Indonesia there is a saying:- "Tiada gading tanpa retak" = "There is no ivory without a crack" This is understood as:- "Nothing is perfect."

14th November 2025, 11:23 PM	#11
Athanase Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Paris (France) Posts: 432	Since I received it, the ivory has given way. In fact, the handle had already been completely broken in two (or even three pieces), then glued back together. And it might not have been the first time it had been glued in that spot, because on the side I can see an older repair with a small ivory nail to help hold the two glued parts together. On one side there's also a missing piece that's been filled with a piece recarved from bone. Now that I've removed the two parts of the handle, I'm thinking of trying to remove the old glue with acetone and then attempting a clean re-glue using the glue we use for fossils at my work (acrylic glue: Paraloid B72).

15th November 2025, 12:36 AM	#12
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,193	I thought that might have been the case when I followed the cracks. I have repaired more than a few hilts in many different materials, my adhesive of choice is 5 minute Araldite. The joining surfaces must be absolutely clean & dry, I like to roughen the joining surfaces with cabinet paper or a sharp pointed tool before applying the adhesive & this adhesive can be tinted with artist's powder colour. Hold firmly in place by hand until the adhesive sets, before that adhesive hardens I go over the hilt using a 2x or 3x loupe & dentists picks and clean away any excess adhesive. Sharpened bambu sate sticks are also good for this purpose. Re roughening surfaces, it is best to leave the one or two millimeters adjoining the visible edge of the crack without roughening in order to make it easier to get a tight fit of those visible edges.

15th November 2025, 10:39 PM	#15
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,193	As I said Detlef, my comment was not my advice, it was advice given to me a long time ago by a lead conservator who had an extremely impressive resume. This man was heavily relied upon by a couple of major museums. I have never tried linseed oil on ivory. Looking at your hilt that has come together I might give it a try on something unimportant, I've got a lot of ivory, I can probably find something with a crack that I'd be prepared to try it on. Tell me, was your linseed oil boiled oil or raw oil? Did you demount the hilt before soaking? If you demounted, did you clean out the tang hole & tang before remounting?