3 worn out keris

A. G. Maisey · 11th February 2020, 09:41 PM

Drying can best be facilitated by following the clean, lint free cloth with a hairdryer.

apolaki · 13th February 2020, 03:38 AM

I dried it throughly with hair dryer, and I am at the WD40 stage for the heavily rusted keris. It looks like there is pamor; Once I dry various applications of WD40, I plan to apply a final layer of pure mineral oil as a last step.

Is this turning out okay? There are trace amounts of yellowing. When oiled I can no longer make out the pamor as the first photo.

I also could not remove the ganja, but I could see some rust remaining in a small interior crevasse.

A. G. Maisey · 13th February 2020, 05:04 AM

That's coming up OK, but you see all those little black dots, well, they need to be cleaned out.

I use two tools for this, a dentists pick, and a saddlers awl with a fine blade in it, I also use a machinists loupe, about 2.5X or 3X. You need to dig the rubbish out of those pits, if you do not, over time rust will usually spread from them.

Ordinary mineral oil after the WD40 is fine. Medicinal paraffin or Singer sewing machine oil is what I use, but I add a fragrant oil to that. The fragrance does nothing in the way of protection, but it is traditional.

When it has been oiled, it is best to store it in a plastic sleeve.

The gunk in the joint between blade & gonjo is nearly always full of rubbish in old keris, a full restoration would involve removal, cleaning and a tight refix, for the last 50 years most m'ranggis have used a two part epoxy cement on the joining surfaces, not to hold the blade and gonjo together, but to protect against further erosion. Since this is your first, I would suggest that you do not attempt the demount of the gonjo, just clean out what gunk you can with a pick and let the oil soak in.

apolaki · 13th February 2020, 09:41 AM

Thanks for the good news! I have been trying the same technique with a moro blade at the same time and it is not turning out so well......

In any case, where do you recommend places to get plastic sleeves? I understand you are based in Australia. Perhaps you may still know or might recommend some everyday object that happens to work perfect but isn't intended to be a sheath for keris?

Maybe other members who are familiar with the US can chime in as well?

Quote:

Originally Posted by A. G. Maisey

That's coming up OK, but you see all those little black dots, well, they need to be cleaned out.

I use two tools for this, a dentists pick, and a saddlers awl with a fine blade in it, I also use a machinists loupe, about 2.5X or 3X. You need to dig the rubbish out of those pits, if you do not, over time rust will usually spread from them.

Ordinary mineral oil after the WD40 is fine. Medicinal paraffin or Singer sewing machine oil is what I use, but I add a fragrant oil to that. The fragrance does nothing in the way of protection, but it is traditional.

When it has been oiled, it is best to store it in a plastic sleeve.

The gunk in the joint between blade & gonjo is nearly always full of rubbish in old keris, a full restoration would involve removal, cleaning and a tight refix, for the last 50 years most m'ranggis have used a two part epoxy cement on the joining surfaces, not to hold the blade and gonjo together, but to protect against further erosion. Since this is your first, I would suggest that you do not attempt the demount of the gonjo, just clean out what gunk you can with a pick and let the oil soak in.

A. G. Maisey · 13th February 2020, 10:37 AM

Well, I buy the sleeves in a 100 meter roll from a shop behind Pasar Gede in Solo, Jawa Tengah, but if you don't really feel like the trek, you could try plastic cling wrap.

apolaki · 13th February 2020, 09:19 PM

Would the plastic cause off-gasing of fumes and potentially adversely effect the metal?

Quote:

Originally Posted by A. G. Maisey

Well, I buy the sleeves in a 100 meter roll from a shop behind Pasar Gede in Solo, Jawa Tengah, but if you don't really feel like the trek, you could try plastic cling wrap.

A. G. Maisey · 13th February 2020, 10:13 PM

Apo, I'm sorry, but I do not understand the question, however, I do understand that the approach I have outlined to you is the one I have used for around 50 years and it has never resulted in any adverse effect on a blade.

13th February 2020, 03:38 AM	#2
apolaki Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 160	I dried it throughly with hair dryer, and I am at the WD40 stage for the heavily rusted keris. It looks like there is pamor; Once I dry various applications of WD40, I plan to apply a final layer of pure mineral oil as a last step. Is this turning out okay? There are trace amounts of yellowing. When oiled I can no longer make out the pamor as the first photo. I also could not remove the ganja, but I could see some rust remaining in a small interior crevasse. Attached Images Last edited by apolaki; 13th February 2020 at 03:57 AM.

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11th February 2020, 09:41 PM	#1
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,015	Drying can best be facilitated by following the clean, lint free cloth with a hairdryer.

13th February 2020, 05:04 AM	#3
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,015	That's coming up OK, but you see all those little black dots, well, they need to be cleaned out. I use two tools for this, a dentists pick, and a saddlers awl with a fine blade in it, I also use a machinists loupe, about 2.5X or 3X. You need to dig the rubbish out of those pits, if you do not, over time rust will usually spread from them. Ordinary mineral oil after the WD40 is fine. Medicinal paraffin or Singer sewing machine oil is what I use, but I add a fragrant oil to that. The fragrance does nothing in the way of protection, but it is traditional. When it has been oiled, it is best to store it in a plastic sleeve. The gunk in the joint between blade & gonjo is nearly always full of rubbish in old keris, a full restoration would involve removal, cleaning and a tight refix, for the last 50 years most m'ranggis have used a two part epoxy cement on the joining surfaces, not to hold the blade and gonjo together, but to protect against further erosion. Since this is your first, I would suggest that you do not attempt the demount of the gonjo, just clean out what gunk you can with a pick and let the oil soak in.

13th February 2020, 10:37 AM	#5
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,015	Well, I buy the sleeves in a 100 meter roll from a shop behind Pasar Gede in Solo, Jawa Tengah, but if you don't really feel like the trek, you could try plastic cling wrap.

13th February 2020, 10:13 PM	#7
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,015	Apo, I'm sorry, but I do not understand the question, however, I do understand that the approach I have outlined to you is the one I have used for around 50 years and it has never resulted in any adverse effect on a blade.