Question about oiling

A. G. Maisey · 11th December 2011, 08:14 PM

Karttikeya, rust attacks ferric material where water is present.

In the ideal situation ferric material should be stored on glass or plastic/perspex shelves in a climate controlled environment, ie, constant temperature, no moisture.

For the usual collector the provision of such environment is not practical, nor possible.

The important thing is this:- keep ferric material out of contact with moisture, and that includes cellulose material, which retains moisture. That means don't let your blades be stored in wood or paper or cloth.

My post # 4 sets forth simply and concisely the methods that I have used over better than 50 years. My methods work. I have blades that I have treated and stored as I describe that have not been re-oiled in better than 20 years. Even 40 odd years ago I was using split plastic bags to wrap blades in, and I still have a couple of these blades in their original wrappings.

Climate is another consideration. I do not live in a tropical climate, but I do live in a maritime climate, I'm less than 25 meters from salt water.

Plastic wrapping of a blade after oiling does work, and most definitely does not generate rust.

But if one does not wish to use plastic, that is not important, what is important is that the blade be protected from contact with moisture. This means that you do not store the unprotected blade in the wrongko, and that you exclude contact with air. This is the purpose of oil:- it excludes air. Plastic wrapping retains the oil.

I have a very great number of blades that need to be protected. I do not have the time to oil each blade every few weeks, thus I try to keep the oil on the blade for as long as possible. Plastic wrap helps to achieve this.

Pusaka · 15th December 2011, 08:03 PM

In Japan don’t they believe using pure clove oil will prevent rusting of the blade?

Personally I don’t like the idea of using synthetic mineral oil on keris, Im sure the isi wont like it

Karttikeya · 16th December 2011, 02:10 AM

I try Pak Alan's recipe by mixing mineral oil with scented oil, the point is how to preserve the blade optimally, so no matter what oil we will use since it can give optimum blade preservation, even if you can afford good gun oil like Pak Alan mentioned, it will give far better protection for your blade, here I face difficulty to get gun oil, that's why I will follow Pak Alan recipe by using mineral oil as base oil, but again oil recipe is subjective for every person. Before I just use sandalwood oil only, no other oil as mixture, but only sandalwood oil can't give good protection, even in smallest degree, not more than fragnance.
I'd like to question Pak Alan about wrapping plastic sleeve, if there is wood or cellulose chips in the blade and I wrap the blade with plastic sleeve,will it generate new rust? What is the best step before I wrap the blade with plastic sleeve? Let's say my blades have already been coated with arsenic long time ago, currently I just need to oil regurly and now I want to use plastic sleeve, what should I do with my blade before wrapping with plastic sleeve?
Thanking you in advance..

A. G. Maisey · 16th December 2011, 03:26 AM

If I need to prepare a blade from the beginning, I usually brush it thoroughly with mineral turpentine to remove old oil and dirt, then I spray, or rather drench, with WD40, I allow that to stand overnight and dry off, then I apply the scented oil, wrap in plastic, and its done.

Singer sewing machine oil is a good oil to use too, maybe better than the medicinal paraffin that I use, and its easily obtainable in Indonesia, and cheap.

Karttikeya · 16th December 2011, 03:55 AM

If I oil the blade then wrap with plastic without brushing throughly, drenching and stick with old oil, what will happen? Will it generate new rust or no?

A. G. Maisey · 16th December 2011, 06:34 AM

Many factors are involved.

Do the job properly and you'll never need to find out if doing it improperly creates problems.

Pusaka · 16th December 2011, 02:55 PM

Jojoba oil as a base could be interesting to test, although it is called an oil in reality it is a wax which is liquid at room temperature. Jojoba base with a few drops of scented oil added could make a good keris oil.

http://www.deepdyve.com/lp/emerald-p...oba-RISbYdkb8P

The above study shows anti corrosion effect on Iron of Jojoba oil

16th December 2011, 02:55 PM	#7
Pusaka Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 341	Jojoba oil as a base could be interesting to test, although it is called an oil in reality it is a wax which is liquid at room temperature. Jojoba base with a few drops of scented oil added could make a good keris oil. http://www.deepdyve.com/lp/emerald-p...oba-RISbYdkb8P The above study shows anti corrosion effect on Iron of Jojoba oil Last edited by Rick; 16th December 2011 at 05:29 PM.

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11th December 2011, 08:14 PM	#1
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,019	Karttikeya, rust attacks ferric material where water is present. In the ideal situation ferric material should be stored on glass or plastic/perspex shelves in a climate controlled environment, ie, constant temperature, no moisture. For the usual collector the provision of such environment is not practical, nor possible. The important thing is this:- keep ferric material out of contact with moisture, and that includes cellulose material, which retains moisture. That means don't let your blades be stored in wood or paper or cloth. My post # 4 sets forth simply and concisely the methods that I have used over better than 50 years. My methods work. I have blades that I have treated and stored as I describe that have not been re-oiled in better than 20 years. Even 40 odd years ago I was using split plastic bags to wrap blades in, and I still have a couple of these blades in their original wrappings. Climate is another consideration. I do not live in a tropical climate, but I do live in a maritime climate, I'm less than 25 meters from salt water. Plastic wrapping of a blade after oiling does work, and most definitely does not generate rust. But if one does not wish to use plastic, that is not important, what is important is that the blade be protected from contact with moisture. This means that you do not store the unprotected blade in the wrongko, and that you exclude contact with air. This is the purpose of oil:- it excludes air. Plastic wrapping retains the oil. I have a very great number of blades that need to be protected. I do not have the time to oil each blade every few weeks, thus I try to keep the oil on the blade for as long as possible. Plastic wrap helps to achieve this.

15th December 2011, 08:03 PM	#2
Pusaka Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 341	In Japan don’t they believe using pure clove oil will prevent rusting of the blade? Personally I don’t like the idea of using synthetic mineral oil on keris, Im sure the isi wont like it

16th December 2011, 02:10 AM	#3
Karttikeya Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 54	I try Pak Alan's recipe by mixing mineral oil with scented oil, the point is how to preserve the blade optimally, so no matter what oil we will use since it can give optimum blade preservation, even if you can afford good gun oil like Pak Alan mentioned, it will give far better protection for your blade, here I face difficulty to get gun oil, that's why I will follow Pak Alan recipe by using mineral oil as base oil, but again oil recipe is subjective for every person. Before I just use sandalwood oil only, no other oil as mixture, but only sandalwood oil can't give good protection, even in smallest degree, not more than fragnance. I'd like to question Pak Alan about wrapping plastic sleeve, if there is wood or cellulose chips in the blade and I wrap the blade with plastic sleeve,will it generate new rust? What is the best step before I wrap the blade with plastic sleeve? Let's say my blades have already been coated with arsenic long time ago, currently I just need to oil regurly and now I want to use plastic sleeve, what should I do with my blade before wrapping with plastic sleeve? Thanking you in advance..

16th December 2011, 03:26 AM	#4
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,019	If I need to prepare a blade from the beginning, I usually brush it thoroughly with mineral turpentine to remove old oil and dirt, then I spray, or rather drench, with WD40, I allow that to stand overnight and dry off, then I apply the scented oil, wrap in plastic, and its done. Singer sewing machine oil is a good oil to use too, maybe better than the medicinal paraffin that I use, and its easily obtainable in Indonesia, and cheap.

16th December 2011, 03:55 AM	#5
Karttikeya Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Posts: 54	If I oil the blade then wrap with plastic without brushing throughly, drenching and stick with old oil, what will happen? Will it generate new rust or no?

16th December 2011, 06:34 AM	#6
A. G. Maisey Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 7,019	Many factors are involved. Do the job properly and you'll never need to find out if doing it improperly creates problems.